“How does it kill people?” At her question Leam turned suddenly round on him, her eyes full of a strange light.
“Some poisons kill in one way and some in another,” answered Alick.
Leam pondered for a few moments; then she asked, “How much poison is there in the world?”
“An immense deal,” said Alick: “I cannot possibly tell you how much.”
“And it all kills?”
“Yes, it all kills, else it is not poison.”
“And every one?”
“Yes, every one if enough is taken.”
“What is enough?” she asked, still so serious, so intent.
Alick laughed. “That depends on the material,” he said. “One grain of some and twenty of others.”
“Don’t laugh,” said Leam with her Spanish dignity: “I am serious. You should not laugh when I am serious.”
“I did not mean to offend you,” faltered Alick humbly. “Will you forgive me?”
“Yes,” said Leam superbly, “if you will not laugh again. Tell me about poison.”
“What can I tell you? I scarcely know what it is you want to hear.”
“What is poison?”
“Strychnine, opium, prussic acid, belladonna, aconite–oh, thousands of things.”
“How do they kill?”
“Well, strychnine gives awful pain and convulsions–makes the back into an arch; opium sends you to sleep; prussic acid stops the action of the heart; and so on.”
“What is that?” asked Leam, pointing to the small phial with its snake-like spiral label.
“Prussic acid–awfully strong. Two drops of that would kill the strongest man in a moment.”
“In a moment?” asked Learn.
“Yes: he would fall dead directly.”
“Would it be painful?”
“No, not at all, I believe.”
“Show it me,” said Learn.
He took the bottle from the shelf. It was a sixty-minim bottle, quite full, stoppered and secured.
She held out her hand for it, and he gave it to her. “Two drops!” mused Leam.
“Yes, two drops,” returned Alick.
“How many drops are here?”
“Sixty.”
“Is it nasty?”
“No–like very strong bitter almonds or cherry-water; only in excess,” he said. “Here is some cherry-water. Will you have a little in some water? It is not nasty, and it will not hurt you.”
“No,” said Leam with an offended air: “I do not want your horrid stuff.”
“It would not hurt you, and it is really rather nice,” returned Alick apologetically.
“It is horrid,” said Learn.
“Well, perhaps you are better without it,” Alick answered, quietly taking the bottle of prussic acid from her hands and replacing it on the shelf, well barricaded by phials and pots.
“You should not have taken it till I gave it you,” said Leam proudly. “You are rude.”
From this time the laboratory had the strangest fascination for Leam. She was never tired of going there, never tired of asking questions, all bearing on the subject of poisons, which seemed to have possessed her. Alick, unsuspecting, glad to teach, glad to see her interest awakened in anything he did or knew, in his own honest simplicity utterly unable to imagine that things could turn wrong on such a matter, told her all she asked and a great deal more; and still Leam’s eyes wandered ever to the shelf where the little phial of thirty deaths was enclosed within its barricades.
One day while they were there Mrs. Corfield called Alick.
“Wait for me, I shall not be long,” he said to Leam, and went out to his mother.
As he turned Learnm’s eyes went again to that small phial of death on the shelf.
“Take it, Leama! take it, my heart!” she heard her mother whisper.
“Yes, mamma,” she said aloud; and leaping like a young panther on the bench, reached to the shelf and thrust the little bottle in her hair. She did not know why she took it: she had no motive, no object. It was mamma who told her–so her unconscious desire translated itself–but she had no clear understanding why. It was instinct, vague but powerful, lying at the back of her mind, unknown to herself that it was there; and all of which she was conscious was a desire to possess that bottle of poison, and not to let them know here that she had taken it.
This was on the afternoon of her last day at the Corfields. She was to go home to-night in preparation for the arrival of her father and madame to-morrow, and in a few hours she would be away. She did not want Alick to come back to the laboratory. She was afraid that he would miss the bottle which she had secured so almost automatically if so superstitiously: Alick must not come back. She must keep that bottle. She hurried across the old-time stick-house, locked the door and took the key with her, then met Alick coming back to finish his lesson on the crystallization of alum, and said, “I am tired of your colored doll’s jewelry. Come and tell me about flowers,” leading the way to the garden.
Doubt and suspicion were qualities unknown to Alick Corfield. It never occurred to him that his young queen was playing a part to hide the truth, befooling him for the better concealment of her misdeeds. He was only too happy that she condescended to suggest how he should amuse her; so he went with her into the garden, where she sat on the rustic chair, and he brought her flowers and told her the names and the properties as if he had been a professor.
At last Leam sighed. “It is very tiresome,” she said wearily. “I should like to know as much as you do, but half of it is nonsense, and it makes my head ache to learn. I wish I had my dolls here, and that you could make them talk as mamma used. Mamma made them talk and go to sleep, but you are stupid: you can speak only of flowers that don’t feel, and about your silly crystals that go to water if they are touched. I like my zambomba and my dolls best. They do not go to water; my zambomba makes a noise, and my dolls can be beaten when they are naughty.”
“But you see I am not a girl,” said Alick blushing.
“No,” said Leam, “you are only a boy. What a pity!”
“I am sorry if you would like me better as a girl,” said Alick.
She looked at him superbly. Then her face changed to something that was almost affection as she answered in a softer tone, “You would be better as a girl, of course, but you are good for a boy, and I like you the best of every one in England now. If only you had been an Andalusian woman!” she sighed, as, in obedience to Mrs. Corfield’s signal, she got up to prepare for dinner, and then home for her father and madame to-morrow.
CHAPTER XX.
IN HER MOTHER’S PLACE.
Whatever madame’s past life had been–and it had been such as a handsome woman without money or social status, fond of luxury and to whom work was abhorrent, with a clear will and very distinct knowledge of her own desires, clever and destitute of moral principle, finds made to her hand–whatever ugly bits were hidden behind the veil of decent pretence which she had worn with such grace during her sojourn at North Aston, she did honestly mean to do righteously now.
She had deceived the man who had married her in such adoring good faith–granted; but when he had reconciled himself to as much of the cheat as he must know, she meant to make him happy–so happy that he should not regret what he had done. Though she was no marquise, only plain Madame de Montfort–so far she must confess for policy’s sake, and to forestall discovery by ruder means, but what remained beyond she must keep secret as the grave, trusting to favorable fortune and man’s honor for her safety–though the story of the fraudulent trustee was untrue, and she never had more money than the three hundred pounds brought in her box wherewith to plant her roots in the North Aston soil–though all the Lionnet bills were yet to be paid, and her husband must pay them, with awkward friends in London occasionally turning up to demand substantial sops, else they would show their teeth unpleasantly,–still, she would get his forgiveness, and she would make him happy.
And she would be good to Leam. She would be so patient, forbearing, tender, she would at last force the child to love her. It was a new luxury to this woman, who had knocked about the world so long and so disreputably, to feel safe and able to be good. She wondered what it would be like as time went on–if the rest which she felt now at the cessation of the struggle and the consciousness of her security would become monotonous or be always restful. At all events, she knew that she was happy for the day, and she trusted to her own tact and management to make the future as fair as the present.
The home-coming was triumphant. Because the rector was inwardly grieved at the loss of his ewe-lamb–for he had lost her in that special sense of spiritual proprietorship which had been his–he was determined to make a demonstration of his joy. He and Mrs. Birkett meant to stand by Mrs. Dundas as they had stood by Madame la Marquise de Montfort, and to publish their partisanship broadly. When, therefore, the travelers returned to North Aston, they found the rector and his wife waiting to receive them at their own door. Over the gate was an archway of evergreens with “Welcome!” in white chrysanthemums, and the posts were wreathed with boughs and ribbons, but leaving “Virginia Cottage” in its glossy evidence of the new regime. The drive was bordered all through with flowers from the rectory garden, and Lionnet too had been ransacked, and the hall was festooned from end to end with garlands, like a transformation-scene in a pantomime. One might have thought it the home-coming of a young earl with his girl-bride, rather than that of a middle-aged widower of but moderate means with his second wife, one of whose past homes had been in St. John’s Wood, and one of her many names Mrs. Harrington.
But it pleased the good souls who thus displayed their sympathy, and it gratified those for whom it had all been done; and both husband and wife expressed their gratitude warmly, and lived up to the occasion in the emotion of the moment.
When their effusiveness had a little calmed, down, when Mrs. Dundas had caressed her child–which poor Mrs. Birkett gave up to her with tears–and Mr. Dundas had also taken it in his arms and called it “Little Miss Dundas” and “My own little Fina” tenderly–when, the servants had been spoken to prettily and the bustle had somewhat subsided, Mrs. Dundas looked round for something missing. “And where is dear Leam?” she asked with her gracious air and sweet smile.
It was very nice of her to be the first to miss the girl. The father had forgotten her, friends had overlooked her, but the stepmother, the traditional oppressor, was thoughtful of her, and wanted to include her in the love afloat. This little circumstance made a deep impression on the three witnesses. It was a good omen for Leam, and promised what indeed her new mother did honestly design to perform.
“Even that little savage must be tamed by such persistent sweetness,” said Mr. Birkett to his wife, while she, with a kindly half-checked sigh, true to her central quality of maternity and love of peace all round, breathed “Poor little Leam!” compassionately.
Leam, however, was no more to the fore at the home-coming than she had been at the marriage, and much searching went on before she was found. She was unearthed at last. The gardener had seen her shrink away into the shrubbery when the carriage-wheels were heard coming up the road, and he gave information to the cook, by whom the truant was tracked and brought to her ordeal.
Mrs. Birkett went out by the French window to meet her as she came slowly up the lawn draped in the deep mourning which for the very contrariety of love she had made deeper since the marriage, her young head bent to the earth, her pale face rigid with despair, her heart full of but one feeling, her brain racked with but one thought, “Mamma is crying in heaven: mamma must not cry, and this stranger must be swept from her place.”
She did not know how this was to be done; she only knew that it must be done. She had all along expected the saints to work some miracle of deliverance for her, and she looked hourly for its coming. She had prayed to them so passionately that she could not understand why they had not answered. Still, she trusted them. She had told them she was angry, and that she thought them cruel for their delay; and in her heart she believed that they knew they had done wrong, and that the miracle would be wrought before too late. It was for mamma, not for herself. Madame must be swept like a snake out of the house, that mamma might no longer be pained in heaven. Personally, it made no difference whether she had to see madame at Lionnet or here at home, but it made all the difference to mamma, and that was all for which she cared.
Thinking these things, she met Mrs. Birkett midway on the lawn, the kind soul having come out to speak a soothing word before the poor child went in, to let her feel that she was sympathized with, not abandoned by them all. Fond as she was of madame, the new Mrs, Dundas, and little as she knew of Leam, the facts of the case were enough for her, and she saw Adelaide and herself in the child’s sorrow and poor Pepita’s successor. “My dear,” she said affectionately as she met the girl walking so slowly up the lawn, “I dare say this is a trial to you, but you must accept it for your good. I know what you must feel, but it is better for you to have a good kind stepmother, who will be your friend and instructress, than to be left with no one to guide you.”
Leam’s sad face lifted itself up to the speaker. “It cannot be good for me if it is against mamma,” she said.
“But, Leam, dear child, be reasonable. Your mamma, poor dear! is dead, and, let us trust, in heaven.” The good soul’s conscience pricked her when she said this glib formula, of which in this present instance she believed nothing. “Your father has the most perfect right to marry again. Neither the Church nor the Bible forbids it; and you cannot expect him to remain single all his life–when he needs a wife so much, too, on your account–because he was married to your dear mamma when she was alive. Besides, she has done with this life and all the things of the earth by now; and even if she has not, she will be happy to see you, her dear child, well cared for and kindly mothered.”
Leam raised her eyes with sorrowful skepticism, melancholy contempt. It was the old note of war, and she responded to it. “I know mamma,” she said; “I know what she is feeling.”
She would have none of their spiritual thaumaturgy–none of that unreal kind of transformation with which they had tried to modify their first teaching. There was no satisfaction in imagining mamma something different from her former self–no more the real, fervid, passionate, jealous Pepita than those pear-shaped transparent bags, so logically constructed by Mrs. Corfield’s philosopher, are like the ideal angels of loving fancy. If mamma saw and knew what was going on here at this present moment–and Mrs. Birkett was not the bold questioner to doubt this continuance of interest–she felt as she would have felt when alive, and she would be angry, jealous, weeping, unhappy.
Mrs. Birkett was puzzled what to say for the best to this uncomfortable fanatic, this unreasonable literalist. When believers have to formularize in set words their hazy notions of the feelings and conditions of souls in bliss, they make but a lame business of it; and nothing that the dear woman could propound, keeping on the side of orthodox spirituality, carried comfort or conviction to Leam. Her one unalterable answer was always simply, “I know mamma: I know what she is feeling,” and no argument could shake her from her point.
At last Mrs. Birkett gave up the contest. “Well, my child,” she said, sighing, “I can only hope that the constant presence of your stepmother, her kindness and sweetness, will in time soften your feeling toward her.”
Leam looked at her earnestly. “It is not for myself,” she said: “it is for mamma.”
And she said it with such pathetic sincerity, such an accent of deep love and self-abandonment to her cause, that the rector’s wife felt her eyes filling up involuntarily with tears. Wrong-headed, dense, perverse as Leam was, her filial piety was at the least both touching and sincere, she said to herself, a pang passing through her heart. Adelaide would not speak of her if she were dead as this poor ignorant child spoke of her mother. Yet she had been to Adelaide all that the best and most affectionate kind of English mother can be, while Pepita had been a savage, now cruel and now fond; one day making her teeth meet in her child’s arm, another day stifling her with caresses; treating her by times as a woman, by times as a toy, and never conscientious or judicious.
All the same, Leam’s fidelity, if touching, was embarrassing as things were; so was her belief in the continued existence of her mother. But what can be done with those uncompromising reasoners who will carry their creeds straight to their ultimates, and will not be put off with eclectic compromises of this part known and that hidden–so much sure and so much vague? Mrs. Birkett determined that her husband should talk to the child and try to get a little common sense into her head, but she doubted the success of the process, perhaps because in her heart she doubted the skill of the operator.
By this time they reached the window, and the woman and the girl passed through into the room.
Mrs. Dundas came forward to meet her stepdaughter kindly–not warmly, not tumultuously–with her quiet, easy, waxen grace that never saw when things were wrong, and that always assumed the halcyon seas even in the teeth of a gale. For her greeting she bent forward to kiss the girl’s face, saying, “My dear child, I am glad to see you,” but Leam turned away her head.
“I am not glad to see you, and I will not kiss you,” she said.
Her father frowned, his wife smiled. “You are right, my dear: it is a foolish habit,” she said tranquilly, “but we are such slaves to silly habits,” she added, looking at the rector and his wife in her pretty philosophizing way, while they smiled approvingly at her ready wit and serene good-temper.
“Will you say the same to me, Leam?” asked her father with an attempt at jocularity, advancing toward her.
“Yes,” said Leam gravely, drawing back a step.
“Tell me, Mrs, Birkett, what can be done with such an impracticable creature?” cried Mr. Dundas.
“She will come right: in time, dear husband,” said the late marquise sweetly; and Mrs. Birkett echoed, looking at the girl kindly, “Oh yes, she will come right in time.”
“If you mean by coming right, letting you be my mamma, I never will,” cried Leam, fronting her stepmother.
“Silence, Leam!” cried Mr. Dundas angrily.
His wife laid her taper fingers tenderly on his. “No, no, dear husband: let her speak,” she pleaded, her voice and manner admirably effective. “It is far better for her to say what she feels than to brood over it in silence. I can wait till she comes to me of her own accord and says, ‘Mamma, I love you: forgive me the past'”
“You are an angel,” said Mr. Dundas, pressing her hand to his lips, his eyes moist and tender.
“I always said it,” the rector added huskily–“the most noble-natured woman of my acquaintance.”
“I never will come to you and say, ‘Mamma, I love you,’ and ask you to forgive me for being true to my own mamma,” said Learn. “I am mamma’s daughter, no other person’s.”
Mrs. Dundas smiled. “You will be; mine, sweet child,” she said.
How ugly Leam’s persistent hate looked by the side of so much unwearied goodness! Even Mrs. Birkett, who pitied the poor child, thought her tenacity too morbid, too dreadful; and the rector honestly held her as one possessed, and regretted in his own mind that the Church had no formula for efficient exorcism. Believing, as he did, in the actuality of Satan, the theory of demoniacal possession came easy as the explanation of abnormal qualities.
Her father raged against himself in that he had given life to so much moral deformity. And yet it was not from him that she inherited “that cursed Spanish blood,” he said, turning away with a groan, including Pepita, Leam, all his past with its ruined love and futile dreams, its hope and its despair, in that one bitter word.
“Don’t say that, papa: mamma and I are true. It is you English that are bad and false,” said Leam at bay.
Mrs. Dundas raised her hand, “Hush, hush, my child!” she said in a tone of gentle authority. “Say of me and to me what you like, but respect your father.”
“Oh, Leam has never done that,” cried Mr. Dundas with intense bitterness.
“No,” said Leam, “I never have. You made mamma unhappy when she was alive: you are making her unhappy now. I love mamma: how can I love you?”
And then, her words realizing her thoughts in that she seemed to see her mother visibly before her, sorrowful and weeping while all this gladness was about in the place which had once been hers, and whence she was now thrust aside–these flowers of welcome, these smiling faces, this general content, she alone unhappy, she who had once been queen and mistress of all–the poor child’s heart broke down, and she rushed from the room, too proud to let them see her cry, but too penetrated with anguish to restrain the tears.
“I am sure I don’t know what on earth we can do with that girl,” said Mr. Dundas with a dash of his old weak petulance, angry with circumstance and unable to dominate it–the weak petulance which had made Pepita despise him so heartily, and had winged so many of her shafts.
“Time and patience,” said madame with her grand air of noble cheerfulness. But she had just a moment’s paroxysm of dismay as she looked through the coming years, and thought of life shared between Leam’s untamable hate and her husband’s unmanly peevishness. For that instant it seemed to her that she had bought her personal ease and security at a high price.
As Leam went up stairs the door of her stepmother’s room was standing open. The maid had unpacked the boxes most in request, and was now at tea in the servants’ hall, telling of her adventures in Paris, where master and mistress had spent the honeymoon, and in her own way the heroine of the hour, like her betters in the parlor. The world seemed all wrong everywhere, life a cheat and love a torture, to Leam, as she stood within the open door, looking at the room which had been hers and her mother’s, now transformed and appropriated to this stranger, She did not understand how papa could have done it. The room in which mamma had lived, the room in which she had died, the window from which she used to look, the very mirror that used to reflect back her beautiful and beloved face–ah, if it could only have kept what it reflected!–and papa to have given all this away to another woman! Poor mamma! no wonder she was unhappy. What could she, Leam, do to prevent all this wickedness if the blessed ones were idle and would not help her?
Her eyes fell on a bottle placed on the console where madame’s night appliances were ranged–her night-light and the box of matches, her Bible and a hymn-book, a tablespoon, a carafe full of water and a tumbler, and this bottle marked “Cherry-water–one tablespoonful for a dose.” In madame’s handwriting underneath stood, “For my troublesome heart.” Only about two tablespoonsful were left.
Leam took the bottle in one hand, the other thrust itself mechanically into her hair. No one was about, and the house was profoundly still, save for the voices coming up from the room below in a subdued and not unpleasant murmur, with now and then the child’s shrill babble breaking in through the deeper tones like occasional notes in a sonata. Out of doors were all the pleasant sights and sounds of the peaceful evening coming on after the labors of the busy day. The birds were calling to each other in the woods before nesting for the night; the homing rooks flew round and round their trees, cawing loudly; the village dogs barked their welcome to their masters as they came off the fields and the day’s work; and the setting sun dyed the autumn leaves a brighter gold, a deeper crimson, a richer russet. It was all so peaceful, all so happy, in this soft mild evening of the late September–all seemed so full of promise, so eloquent of future joy, to those who had just begun their new career.
But Leam knew nothing of the poetry of the moment–felt nothing of its pathetic irony in view of the deed she was half-unconsciously designing. She saw only, at first dimly, then distinctly, that here were the means by which mamma’s enemy might be punished and swept from mamma’s place, and that if she failed her opportunity now she would be a traitor and a coward, and would fail in her love and duty to mamma. No, she would not fail. Why should she? It was the way which the saints themselves had opened, the thing she had to do; and the sooner it was done the better for mamma.
She uncorked the bottle of cherry-water, good for that troublesome heart of poor madame’s. All that Alick had told her of the action of poisons came back upon her as clearly as her mother’s words, her mother’s voice. This cherry-water, too, had the smell of bitter almonds, and was own sister to that in the little phial in her other hand. Now she understood it all–why she had been taken to Steel’s Corner, why Alick had taught her about poisons, and why her mamma had told her to steal that bottle. She looked at it with its eloquent paper marked “Poison” wound about it spirally like a snake, uncorked it and emptied half into the cherry-water.
“Two drops are enough, and there are more than two there,” she said to herself. “Mamma must be safe now.” And with this she left the room and went into her own to watch and wait.
It was early to-night when Mrs. Dundas retired. There were certain things which she wanted to do on this her first night in her new home; and among them she wanted to put that green velvet pocket-book, gold embroidered, in some absolutely safe place, where it would not be seen by prying eyes or fall into dangerous hands. She did not intend to destroy its contents. She knew enough of the uncertainty of life to hold by all sorts of anchorages; and though things looked safe and sweet enough now, they might drift into the shallows again, and she wished her little Fina’s future to be assured by one or other of those charged with it–if the stepfather failed, then to fall back on the father. Wherefore she elected to keep these papers in a safe place rather than destroy them, and the safest place she could think of was Pepita’s jewel-case, now her own. It had a curious lock, which no other key than its own would fit–a lock that would have baffled even a “cracksman” and his whole bunch of skeleton keys.
In putting them away, obliged for the need of space to take off the paper wrappings, she was foolish enough to look at the photographs within–just one last look before banishing them for ever from her sight, as an honest wife should–and the sight of the handsome young face which she had loved sincerely in its day, and which was the face of her child’s father, shook her nerves more than she liked them to be shaken. That troublesome heart of hers had begun to play her strange tricks of late with palpitation and irregularity. She could not afford that her nerve should fail her. That gone, nothing would remain to her but a wreck. But her cherry-water was a pleasant and safe calmant, and she knew exactly how much to take.
Her maid saw nothing more to-night than she had seen on any other night of her service. Her mistress, if not quite so sweet to her as to Mrs. Birkett, say, or the rector, was yet fairly amiable as mistresses go, and to-night was neither better nor worse than ordinary. Her attendance went on in the usual routine, with nothing to remark, bad or good; and then madame laid her fair head on the pillow, and took a tablespoonful of her calmant to check the palpitation that had come on, and to still her nerves, which that last look backward had somewhat disturbed.
How beautiful she looked! Fair and lovely as she had always been to the eyes of Sebastian Dundas, never had she looked so grand as now. Her yellow hair was lying spread out on the pillow like a glory: one white arm was flung above her head, the other hung down from the bed. Her pale face, with her mouth half open as if in a smile at the happy things she dreamt, peaceful and pure as a saint’s, seemed to him the very embodiment of all womanly truth and sweetness. He leaned over her with a yearning rapture that was almost ecstasy. This noble, loving woman was his own, his life, his future. No more dark moods of despair, no more angry passions, disappointment and remorse; all was to be cloudless sunshine, infinite delight, unending peace and love.
“My darling, oh my love!” he said tenderly, laying his hand on her glossy golden hair and kissing her. “Virginie, give me one word of love on your first night at home.”
She was silent. Was her sleep so deep that even love could not awake her? He kissed her again and raised her head on his arm. It fell back without power, and then he saw that the half-opened mouth had a little froth clinging about the lips.
A cry rang through the house–cry on cry. The startled servants ran up trembling at they knew not what, to find their master clasping in his arms the fair dead body of his newly-married wife.
“Dead–she is dead,” they passed in terrified whispers from each to each.
Leam, standing upright in her room, in her clinging white night-dress, her dark hair hanging to her knees, her small brown feet bare above the ankle–not trembling, but tense, listening, her heart on fire, her whole being as it were pressed together, and concentrated on the one thought, the one purpose–heard the words passed from lip to lip. “Dead,” they said–“dead!”
Lifting up her rapt face and raising her outstretched arms high above her head, with no sense of sin, no consciousness of cruelty, only with the feeling of having done that thing which had been laid on her to do–of having satisfied and avenged her mother–she cried aloud in a voice deepened by the pathos of her love, the passion of her deed, into an exultant hymn of sacrifice, “Mamma, are you happy now? Mamma! mamma! leave off crying: there is no one in your place now.”
[TO BE CONTINUED.]
FAMISHING PORTUGAL.
The following paper contains the substance of a remarkable letter and accompanying documents recently received from Portugal:
LISBON, September, 1875.
You wish to know what truth there is in the cable reports of “a drought in the north and south of Portugal, and a threatened famine in two or three provinces.” Shall I tell you all? Well, then, Heaven nerve me for the task! I shall have an unpleasant story to narrate.
You, who have been in Portugal, need not be reminded that the kingdom consists of six provinces–Minho, Tras-os-Montes, Beira, Estremadura, Alemtejo and Algarve. In the early part of this summer a drought affected the whole kingdom. Toward the end of July abundant rain fell in Minho, where two products only are raised–wine (“port wine”) and maize. The rain, which, had it fallen in Alemtejo, the principal wheat-province of the kingdom, would have done incalculable good, benefited neither the vineyards of Minho nor the maize-crop anywhere. The consequence is, that this last-named crop, the principal bread-food of the country, has failed, and famine prevails throughout the land. Having lived in America, I know what you, so accustomed to freedom and plenty, will say to this:
“France, Sprain, Morocco, England–all these countries are near to Portugal. If she is short of bread, let her simply exchange wine for it, and there need be no fears of a famine.”
Ah, my dear American friends, little do you suspect the artlessness of this reply. Know, then, that those who own the wines of Portugal do not lack for bread, and those who lack for bread do not own the wines; that the first of these classes are the aristocrats and foreigners who live in the cities or abroad, and the second the people at large; that there exists an abyss between these classes so profound that no political institutions yet devised have been able to bridge it; that there is no credit given by one class to the other, and few dealings occur between them; and that the laws of Portugal discourage the importation of grain into the kingdom.
You are a straightforward people, and dive at once to the bottom of a subject. “Why do not the Portuguese devote themselves so largely to the cultivation of grain that there need never be danger of famine?” you will now ask. My answer to this is: The people do not own the land.
“What! Were the reforms of Pombal, the French Revolution, the Portuguese revolution of 1820 and the various constitutions since that date, the abolition of serfdom and mortmain, and the law of 1832, all ineffectual to emancipate the Portuguese peasant from the thralldom of land?”
Alas! they were indeed all in vain, and the Portuguese peasantry stands to-day at the very lowest step of European civilization–far beneath all others. The number of agricultural workers in Portugal is about eight hundred and seventy-five thousand. Of this number, some seven hundred thousand are hired laborers, farm-servants, _emphyteutas_ (you shall presently know the meaning of this ominous word) and metayers; that is to say, persons who may cultivate only such products as their employers or landlords choose, and the latter in their greed and short-sightedness always choose that the former shall cultivate wine. The remainder, or some one hundred and seventy-five thousand, consist chiefly of small proprietors, owning three, four, five and ten acre patches of land, often intersected by other properties, and therefore not adapted for the cultivation of grain: such of the _emphyteutas_ and metayers as are practically free to cultivate what they please make up the remainder of this class.
The quantity of land devoted to grain is therefore exactly what the aristocratic land-owners choose to make it; and, never suspecting that a well-fed peasant is more efficient as a laborer than a famished one, they have made it barely enough, in good years, to keep the miserable population from entirely perishing. The product in such years is about six bushels of edible grain per head of total population, together with a little pulse and a taste of fish or bacon on rare occasions. In unfavorable years, like the present one, the product of edible grain falls to five bushels per head, and unless the government suspends the corn laws for the whole country–which since 1855 it has usually done on such occasions–famine ensues. The nation (excepting, of course, the court and aristocracy, who live in or near Lisbon and Oporto) is thus kept always at the brink of starvation, and every mishap in these artificial and tyrannical arrangements consigns fresh thousands to the grave.
The population of Portugal was the same in 1798 that it is to-day–viz., about four millions–and there has been no time between those periods when it was greater. Knowing, as we do, that the law of social progress is growth–in other words, that the condition of individual development, both physical and intellectual, is that degree of freedom which finds its expression in the increase of numbers–what does this portentous fact of a stationary population bespeak? Simply, the utmost degradation of body and mind; vice in its most hideous forms; filth, disease, unnatural crimes; a hell upon earth. These are always the characteristics of nations which have been prevented from growing. The melancholy proofs of a condition of affairs in Portugal which admits of this description shall presently be forthcoming.
Antonio de Leon Pinelo, who was one of the greatest lawyers and historians that Spain ever produced, very profoundly remarked that no man could possibly understand the history of slavery in America who had not first mastered the subject of Spanish _encomiedas_. With equal truth it may be said that the solution of Portuguese history lies in the subject of _emphyteusis_. Emphyteusis (Greek: zmphutehuis, “ingrafting,” “implanting,” and perhaps, metaphorically, “ameliorating”) is a lease of land where the tenant agrees to improve it and pay a certain rent. The origin of this tenure is Greek, and it was probably first adopted in Rome after the conquest of the Achaean League (B.C. 146), when Greece became a Roman province. It was carried into Carthage B.C. 145, and into Spain and Portugal about B.C. 133, when those countries fell beneath the Roman arms. Whenever this occurred the first act of the conquerors was to assume the ownership of the land. They then leased it on emphyteusis, either to the original occupiers, to their own soldiers, or to settlers (“carpet-baggers”). The rent was called _vectigal_, and decurions (corporals in the army) were usually employed to collect it and administer the lands.
Syria, Greece, Carthage, and the Iberian Peninsula were the first countries to succumb to the Roman arms outside of Italy. These conquests all occurred within the space of fifty-seven years (from 190 to 133 B.C.), and this was doubtless the period when emphyteusis was first employed upon an extensive scale. Originally, the tenants were liable to have their rents increased, and to be evicted at the pleasure of the state, and thus lose the benefit of any improvements effected by them. The result was, that no improvements were effected. The forests were cut down, the orchards destroyed, the lands exhausted by incessant cropping; and by the beginning of the present era the entire coasts of the Mediterranean were exploited.
This great historical fact is replete with significance–not only to Portugal, but also to the rest of the world, even to America, which, by abandoning its public lands to the rapacity of monopolists and the vandalism of ignorant immigrants, is preparing for itself a future filled with forebodings of evil.
The ruin of the lands of Carthage, Spain, etc. eventually hastened the ruin of Italy. It put an end to the legitimate supplies of grain which those countries had been accustomed to contribute; it forced their populations to crowd into already overcrowded Italy, and increase the requirements of food in a country which had been exploited like their own, and, though not so rapidly, yet by similar means;[1] and it gave rise to the servile wars, to the most corrupt period in Roman history, to the Empire, and to the endless series of consequences in its train.
[Footnote 1: Although the various states of Italy were conquered by Rome before Greece was, it is probable that emphyteusis was not employed in those states until after the year B.C. 146–between that and B.C. 120.]
After the Western Empire had apparently fallen beneath the Northern arms–that is to say, five hundred years later–and not until then, the Roman Code ameliorated the baneful tenure of emphyteusis. A law of the emperor Zenos (A.D. 474-491) fixed whatever had theretofore been uncertain in the nature and incidents of emphyteusis. The tenant was guaranteed from increase of rent and from eviction–the alienation of the property by the state being held thenceforth to affect the quit-rent only–and finally he obtained full power to dispose of the land, which nevertheless remained subject to the quit-rent in whatever hands it might be. Before these reforms were effected, Portugal was conquered by the Visigoths, the Roman proprietors of the soil were expelled, and their laws and institutions suppressed. This occurred in the year 476. Whether emphyteusis in any form remained is not quite certain, but it seems not; and during this government, and the Moorish one which superseded it in the year 711, the Iberian Peninsula enjoyed an interval of prosperity to which it had been a stranger for ages.
In the eleventh century this happy condition of affairs was disturbed by the appearance of certain Spanish crusading knights, who, issuing from the mountainous parts of the country adjacent to their own, began to war against the Moorish authorities. In the course of a century, and with little voluntary aid from the peasants, who distrusted them and their religious pretensions and promises of advantage, they managed to acquire possession of the country. Now, what do you suppose was one of the first acts committed by these adventurers? Nothing less than the re-enactment of the odious Roman tenure of emphyteusis, and that in its most ancient and worst form–liability to increased rent and to eviction; not only this, but with certain base services combined. The wretched inhabitants were required to work so many days in the week for these lords, to break up a certain amount of waste land; to furnish so many cattle; to kill so many birds; to provide (in rural districts remote from the sea) so many salt fish; to furnish so much incense or so many porringers, iron tools, pairs of shoes, etc.
Talk of the Western Empire having “declined and fallen,” as Messrs. Gibbon and Wegg put it! Why, here it was again, and with the worst of its ancient crimes inscribed upon its code of law. Emphyteusis was reintroduced into Portugal by King Diniz (Dennis) in the year 1279, and was followed by its usual effects–ruin and depopulation. In 1394 was born Prince Henry. He was the son of John I. and Philippa, daughter of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, and was therefore the nephew of Henry IV. of England. Perceiving and commiserating the wretchedness of the people, and casting about him for a remedy, Henry saw but one: that was departure from the land, emigration, colonization, escape from the tyranny of the soil, of nobles and of ecclesiastics–a tyranny which both his illustrious rank and his piety forbade him to oppose. Hence his intense devotion to the discovery and colonization of strange lands, which is in vain to be accounted for on the ground of a mere passion, the only one usually advanced by unthinking historians.
The results of this mania, as it was then considered, of Prince Henry are well known–the discovery of Madeira, the Azores, Senegambia, Angola, Benguela, etc., and, after Prince Henry’s death, the Cape of Good Hope, Goa, Macao, the islands, etc.; all of which were colonized by Portuguese. These colonies, and the commerce which sprang up with them, afforded outlets for the downtrodden serfs of Portugal. Such was the beneficial result of this partial measure of freedom that in the course of the following two centuries Portugal became one of the leading nations of the world, with a population of 5,000,000 and a flag respected in every clime.
Unhappily, this interval of prosperity to Portugal was the cause of infinite misery to the negro race. The discoveries in Africa and Asia afforded a career to the enslaved Portuguese; yet, by leading, as they did, to the discovery of America, they were eventually the cause of the slave-trade, which without America could not have flourished. Such will ever be the result of the attempt to palliate instead of cure evil. Moreover, the discovery of America and the resulting slave-trade were the cause of Portugal’s retrogression to the point whence she had started in Prince Henry’s time. When gold and slaves rendered maritime discovery profitable to the aristocratic class, all the nobles went into it–not only the aristocrats of Portugal, but those also of Spain, England, France, Holland, Italy. They all went into the trade of acquiring empires, and it is not to be wondered at if in this rivalry of greed and violence Portugal, exploited and burdened with serfdom and other features of bad government at home, was distanced and overcome. Her colonies were captured and reduced by foreign enemies, or invaded and ruined by one of the several political diseases from which she had never wholly rid herself. For example, the once magnificent city of Goa, which formerly contained a population of 150,000 Christians and 50,000 Mohammedans, is now an almost deserted ruin, with but 40,000 inhabitants, _chiefly ecclesiastical_.
When Pombal assumed the reins of government in 1750 the population of Portugal had been reduced to less than 2,000,000: there was neither agriculture, manufactures, army nor navy. Perceiving this state of affairs, and recognizing the cause of it, Pombal caused the vines to be torn up by the roots and corn planted in their place. Ruffianism was crushed, the Jesuits were banished, the nobility were taught to respect the civil law, the peasantry were encouraged. After twenty-seven years of reforms and prosperity Pombal was dismissed from office and the old abuses were reinstated, among them those worst incidents of emphyteusis which had been devised by the base ring of nobles and ecclesiastics who held the land in their grasp.
These abuses remained without material change until 1832, and thus you have a complete history of emphyteusis from the first to the last day of its institution in Portugal. In truth, however, its last day has not come even yet, for many of its incidents still linger in the code of laws.
Now for its effects on the land. What growth of forest trees had followed the abolition of emphyteusis under the Gothic and Saracenic monarchs was destroyed under the government of Christian nobles, and to-day there is scarcely a tree in Portugal–the woods, including fruit and nut trees, covering less than 400,000 out of 22,000,000 acres, the entire area of the country. The destruction of the woods, to say nothing of its effects upon the rainfall, caused the top soil to be washed away, and thus impoverished the arable land, filling the rivers with earth, rendering them innavigable, and converting them from gently-flowing streams to devastating torrents, which annually bestrew the valleys and plains with sand and stones.[2] In the next place, emphyteusis has caused every kind of improvement to be avoided. The soil has been exhausted by over-cropping; public works, like roads, wells, irrigating canals, etc., have been neglected; and the numerous works left by the industrious Saracens have been allowed to go to ruin. Finally, the tenant, being placed entirely in the power of the lord, was continually kept at the point of starvation. To escape this dreadful fate he has committed every conceivable offence against the laws of Nature and humanity. Tyranny and starvation have made of him a liar, thief, smuggler, assassin, beast. The very ground is tainted with his tread, the air is redolent of his crimes.
[Footnote 2: The Mondega annually overflows its banks, changes its course and buries thousands of once fertile acres under sand and stones; the Vonga has converted the once productive land between Aveiro and Ovar into a vast morass; the Douro is periodically converted into a frightful and resistless torrent which sweeps everything before it.]
I am aware of the eminently legal, and therefore judicial, mind of Americans; therefore I shall give nothing of importance on my own testimony alone. It shall be seen what the Portuguese peasant is from the descriptions that travelers have written, and from the fragments of statistical evidence which the deeply-culpable ruling classes have permitted to be published.
But first let me describe the degree of destitution to which the peasant has been reduced, for without this destitution this criminal character would not have been his.
Baron Forrester says:[3] “The poverty of the inhabitants of the interior of Portugal is equal to that of the Irish.” (This was written in 1851, immediately after the Irish famine.) “The wretchedness of their condition checks marriage and promotes clandestine intercourse.” William Doria writes:[4] “The inhabitants (all ages) do not obtain half (scarcely one-third) as much as the minimum of animal food required to sustain active vitality, which is one hundred grammes, about one-fifth of a pound, per day.” Marques says:[5] “The daily ration of an able-bodied man should consist of at least twelve hundred grammes, of which one-fourth (about three-fifths of a pound) should be animal food. The Portuguese soldier (much better fed than the peasant) receives but seventeen grammes (little over half an ounce) of animal food.” Notwithstanding the superior food of the soldier, such is the hatred of the peasant for the aristocratic classes, in whose service the army is employed, that he will mutilate himself to escape the conscription.[6] Says Malte-Brun: “During four months of the year the inhabitants of the Algarve have little to eat but raw figs. This causes a disease called _mal de veriga_, which sweeps away numbers of the people.” Says Doria: “All the women work in the fields;” and Dr. Farr[7] tells us that “when women are employed in any but domestic labors they discharge the duties of mother imperfectly, and the mortality of children is high.” Says Forrester: “Leavened bread is beginning to be known in the principal cities, but not in the provinces. Gourds, cabbages and turnip-sprouts, with bread made from chestnuts (which are always wormy), form the peasant’s diet.” “In Algarve carob-beans are commonly roasted, ground into flour and made into bread.” Says Da Silva:[8] “The growth of the peasantry is stunted by insufficient nourishment, which consists largely of chestnuts, beans and chick-peas.”
[Footnote 3: _Prize Essay on Portugal_, London, 1854.]
[Footnote 4: _Parliamentary Papers_, London, 1870.]
[Footnote 5: _Estudos Estatisticos, hygienicos e administrativas sobre as doencas e a mortalidade do exercito Portuguez_, etc., by Dr. Jose Antonio Marques, Lisbon, 1862.]
[Footnote 6: Doria, p. 184.]
[Footnote 7: The Registrar-General of England.]
[Footnote 8: L.A. Rebello da Silva (minister of marine), _Economia. Rural_, Lisbon, 1868.]
The utmost area of land which the average Portuguese peasant can cultivate is two and a half acres: in the United States the average of cultivated land per laborer is over thirty-two acres; on prairie-land sixty acres is not uncommon. Forrester writes: “In the Alto Douro, the richest portion of the kingdom, the villages are formed of wretched hovels with unglazed windows and without chimneys. Instead of bread or the ordinary necessaries of life, one finds only filth, wretchedness and death. Emigration is the one thought of the people.”
Now for the moral, intellectual and physical results of the destitution thus evinced. The work entitled _Voyage du Duc du Chatelet en Portugal_, although usually quoted under this title, was really written by M. Comartin, a royalist of La Vendee, and written during the French Revolution. If it had any bias at all, that bias was all in favor of Portugal, yet this is his description of her people: “Il est, je pense, peu de peuple plus laid que celui de Portugal. Il est petit, basane, mal conforme. L’interieur repond, en general, assez a cette repoussante envelope, surtout a Lisbonne, ou les hommes paroissent reunir tous les vices de l’ame et du corps. II y a, au reste, entre la capitale et le nord de ce royaume, une difference marquee sous ces deux rapports. Dans les provinces septentrionales, les hommes sont moins noirs et moin laids, plus francs, plus lians dans la societe, bien plus braves et plus laborieux, mais encore plus asservis, s’il est possible, aux prejuges. Cette difference existe egalement pour les femmes; elles sont beaucoup plus blanches que celles du sud. Les Portugais, consideres en general, sont vindicatifs bas, vains, railleurs, presomptueux a l’exces, jaloux. et ignorans. Apres avoir retrace les defauts que j’ai cru appercevoir en eux, je serois injuste si je me taisois sur leurs bonnes qualites. Ils sont attaches a leur patrie, amis genereux, fideles, sobres, charitables. Ils seroient bons Chretiens si le fanatisme ne les aveugloit pas. Ils sont si accoutumes aux pratiques de la religion qu’ils sont plus superstitieux que devots. Les hidalgos, ou les grands de Portugal, sont tres bornes dans leur education, orgueilleux et insolens; vivant dans la plus grande ignorance, ils ne sortent presque jamais de leur pays pour aller voir les autres peuples.” Time and changed circumstances have somewhat softened these traits, but their general correctness is still recognizable.
“Add hypocrisy to a Spaniard’s vices and you have the Portuguese character,” says Dr. Southey. “They are deceitful and cowardly–have no public spirit nor national character,” says Semple. “The morals of both sexes are lax in the extreme; assassination is a common offence; they rank about as low in the social scale as any people of Christendom,” says McCulloch. “Their songs are licentious: the national dance or the _toffa_ is so lascivious that every stranger who sees it must deplore the corruption of the people, and regret to find such exhibitions permitted, not only in the country, but in the heart of towns, and even on the stage,” says Malte-Brun. “Portugal is a paradise inhabited by demons and brutes,” says Madame Junot–a phrase taken probably from Byron’s description of Cintra.
My countrymen will be enraged with me for thus repeating the worst that has been said about them, but I repeat it for their own benefit, like the surgeon, who, to save the patient’s life, cruelly probes the wound or lays bare the corruption from which he is suffering. Moreover, I shall have still darker spots to exhibit in a national character which has been stamped with centuries of feudal and ecclesiastical tyranny.
In a country possessing a fair share of the natural resources commonly in demand a free and prosperous population will double in numbers every fifteen years, an increase of about 4-1/2 per cent. per annum compounded. The United States, a country rich in natural resources, and one whose government offers but few obstacles to freedom and individual prosperity, has doubled its population every twenty-two and a half years since 1790. This is equal to over 3 per cent. per annum. In that country the annual number of births in every 10,000 of population is 500,[9] of immigrants, 75; total increase, 575. The deaths are 250, leaving 325 in 10,000, or 3-1/2 per cent. gain as the net result of the year’s growth and decay of population.
There is no reason for believing that the proportion of births in Portugal is less than it is in Germany, or even the United States: on the contrary, “in climates where the waste of human life is excessive from the combined causes of disease and poverty affecting the mass of the inhabitants, the number of births is proportionately greater than is experienced in countries more favorably circumstanced…. Population does not so much increase because more are born, as because fewer die.”[10] Hence, the presumption is that the rate of births in Portugal is equal to that in Carthagena de Colombia, where it is 8 to 10 per cent., or at least that of some parts of Mexico, where it is 6.21 per cent. Yet the population of Portugal has not increased during a hundred years. What, then, has become of the 250,000 human beings annually called into existence in Portugal? One-half of them took their chances with the rest of the population, were registered at birth, died according to rule, were duly entered upon statistical tables and buried in consecrated ground: the other half were strangled by their mothers, flung into ditches, exposed to die, starved to death, assassinated in some manner. The crimes of foeticide and infanticide have become so common that there is scarcely a peasant-woman in Portugal not guilty of them, either as principal or accessory.
[Footnote 9: It is understood, of course, that the census figures of births are admittedly and grossly inaccurate.]
[Footnote 10: Porter’s _Progress_, p. 21.]
Illegitimacy is more common in Portugal than in any country of Europe. This fact can be proved from a comparison of marriages, births and baptisms; but since the statistics on these subjects are defective, the better testimony is to be derived from the number of deposits at the foundling hospitals. The foundling of the house of Misericordia in Lisbon, that of the Real Casapin in Belem and the foundling at Oporto together receive nearly five thousand foundlings during the year, of whom two-thirds[11] perish in the establishments, which thus become “charnels and houses of woe.” Almost every town or village in the kingdom has its _roda dos expostos_–literally, a “wheel for exposed ones”–where, upon the ringing of a bell, the children deposited in a turning-basket or wheel are passed into the interior of the establishment without inquiry. Although their term of stay is limited to a few weeks, less than one-half of them ever pass out of the establishment alive! Says Dr. T. de Carvalho: “The _roda_ is the _acouque_ (‘slaughter-house’) for children. It is the permanent and legal means of infanticide. _Abaixo a roda dos expostos!_”
Notwithstanding this frightful mortality, the number of infants always on hand in the foundlings of Portugal is nearly 40,000, or 1 per cent of the entire population. One-eighth of all the reported births in the kingdom become foundlings: as for the non-reported ones, their fate is known only to the recording angel. Says Claudio Adriano da Costa: “Promiscuous intercourse has become common all over the country;” and he attributes it, though I think superficially, to the “misplaced indulgence to concubinage awarded by the rodas.”[12]
[Footnote 11: During the thirteen years from 1840-52 the number of children deposited in the Oporto foundling was 15,608, of whom no less than 11,310, or 72.4 per cent.–_nearly three-fourths_–died while in the hospital. Most of the remainder died during infancy after leaving the hospital.]
[Footnote 12: In some districts of Portugal the proportion of married to single persons is as 1 to 173!]
The true cause of Portuguese immorality and crime is the unequal distribution of wealth, which leaves the mass of the inhabitants a prey to the vicissitudes of the seasons, the tyranny of the powerful and wealthy and the despair of insecurity. The origin of this evil state of affairs was the tenure of emphyteusis: its active and unfeeling promoters have been always the nobility and ecclesiastics, and its only powerful enemy, the only hope of the people, the Crown.
After what has been mentioned it is unnecessary to speak of minor crimes— of street assassinations, highway robberies and the like. Your own McCulloch will inform you that according to official information reported to the Cortes there occurred in one year, and merely in the two districts of Oporto and Guarda, no less than three hundred and forty-two assassinations and four hundred and sixty robberies. It is true that life is not quite so insecure now as when McCulloch wrote. Some few rays of light have penetrated the profound abyss of misery and evil in which the country was then plunged; nevertheless, the improvement has been but slow and partial, and nothing short of revolution can accelerate it. There is but one man in the world who possesses the means to render that revolution successful, and that man–His Majesty Dom Pedro II., the emperor of Brazil–is now, or soon will be, on his way to the United States. May he not peruse in vain this sad account of famine and crime in Portugal!
There are persons with nervous organisms so abused that a sudden cry, whether it be of boisterousness or despair, will cause them great agony: so there are others with moral susceptibilities so overstrained that the story of a nation’s misery and crime, such as I have endeavored to sketch, will evoke within them more pain than interest. Regard for such exceptional persons has created a namby-pambyism in literature which would banish these topics–the greatest and holiest in which human sympathy can be enlisted–to the domains of science. But science cannot aid unhappy Portugal. Sympathy and prayer alone can mitigate our sufferings. Therefore sympathize with and pray for us, you who stand in the broad glare of freedom, filled with plenty and surrounded by promise, Pray for unhappy Portugal!
AT THE OLD PLANTATION.
TWO PAPERS.–I.
The life of the low-country South Carolina planter, until broken up by the war, had changed but little since colonial times. It was the life which Washington lived at Mount Vernon, with some slight differences of local custom. The two-storied house, with its ten or twenty rooms and broad piazza, had probably been built in ante-Revolutionary days by the British country gentleman or Huguenot exile from whom the present owner drew his descent. I well remember how the old house at Hanover bore near the top of the chimney stack the legend “_Peu a peu_” written with a stick in the soft mortar with which the bricks had been covered. The old Huguenot builder had burned his bricks by guess, and three times the work had to stop until the kiln could be replenished and a new lot prepared. The top was finally reached, however, and the triumphant _Peu a peu_ was only his French way of proclaiming to posterity _Perseverantia vincit omnia_. In many instances, however, fire has destroyed the original structure–a danger to which the country residence is specially exposed–but the new one has usually been modeled after that which it succeeded. Indian names, flowing softly from the tongue, have usually come down with the tracts to which they originally belonged, as _Pooshee, Wantoot, Wampee, Wapahoula_, though Chelsea, White Hall, Sarrazin’s or Sans Souci often betrays the English or French origin of the first patentee.
To understand the home and life of the wealthy Carolina planter we must remember that he was the most contented man in the world. The greed of gain was unknown to him, and his deep-rooted conservatism forbade everything like speculation. Solid, substantial comfort and large-hearted hospitality were the objects in all his expenditures. He never invested his surplus money except in another plantation to put his surplus negroes on, for he never sold a negro except for incorrigible bad qualities or to pay some pressing debt. He had no expensive tastes except for rare old madeira and racing-stock, from the last of which his splendid saddle-horses were always selected; and these were usually of the best and purest blood. He was as much at home in the saddle as an English fox-hunter or a Don Cossack, and the only wheeled vehicles in his spacious carriage-house were the heavy family coach, and the light sulky in which his summer trips were made between the pineland and the plantation.
Come back with me now to the days when the North-eastern Railroad was a possibility of the future, and join me in a Christmas visit to old Pooshee. We take the little steamer for the head of Cooper River, the December sun being warm enough to tempt us from the close cabin to the airy deck. The graceful spire of old St. Michael’s cuts sharply against the sky, reminding you, if you have visited the suburbs of London, of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, that fine specimen of Sir Christopher Wren’s style, after which it was modeled. The old customhouse looks just as it did when Governor Rutledge had the tea locked up in its store-rooms, and the gray moss droops in weeping festoons from the live-oaks of beautiful Magnolia. I wonder how the miles of green marsh through which we pass can seem to you such a dreary waste. To my eye it is all alive with interest. I never tire of watching how the lonely white heron spears his scaly prey, how the clapper-rail floats on his raft of matted rushes, how the marsh-wren jerks his saucy little tail over his bottle-shaped nest, or how with quick and certain stroke the oyster-catcher extracts the juicy “native” from his bivalved citadel. We are now getting above the salt-water line, and on either hand the rice-fields, now covered with water, stretch away from the banks, their surface covered with countless thousands of ducks. As the winding river brings the channel somewhat nearer to the shore, the splash of the paddles startles the feeding multitude, and they rise with a rush and roar of wings which might be heard for miles. Could we stop for a day or two at Rice Hope, we might have rare sport among the mallards and bald-pates as they fly out between sunset and dark, or in the early morning from behind a well-constructed blind. But we must decline the cordial invitation which urges us to do so as the boat casts off from the landing, and in a couple of hours more we step ashore at Fairlawn, where we find the carriage waiting to take us over the twelve remaining miles of our journey. The road, like the marsh, may seem lonely and tedious to you, but I know every turn and bend of it, and the trees are all old friends. I’m sure I know that green heron which “skowks” to me as he springs from the rail of the bridge, and there is something familiar in the bark of the black squirrel which has just rushed up that pine. Hark! that was the yelp of a turkey. Stop the horses for a moment and we may see them. One, two, four, seven! What a splendid old gobbler last crossed the road, and no guns loaded! And there is the track of as noble a buck as I ever saw: that’s where he jumped into the pea-field, and ten to one he’s lying now in that patch of sedge.
“Well!” I think I hear you say, “you have seen more to interest you in a hundred yards than I should have found in two miles.”
Exactly; and that is why I enjoy the country so much. Learn to love Nature in her every mood and to study her every feature, and you will never know the feeling of loneliness if you keep outside the walls of a jail. But we are at the outer gate, and our journey is nearly over. At the end of a long enclosed road, shaded by trees–which, however, do not form an avenue, such as you may see near the coast, where the live-oaks flourish more vigorously–stands the spacious mansion, with its white walls, green Venetian shutters and red tin roof. There is no enclosure about it save that which is formed by the rail fences of the distant fields. The “yard” contains about forty acres of grassy lawn shaded by spreading forest trees–white-oaks, water-oaks and hickories–from which hang the graceful folds of the Spanish moss. The out-buildings are scattered about without the slightest reference to distance, except in the case of the kitchen, which is at the back and some twenty yards from the dwelling. The stable and carriage-house stand on either side, _in front_, but at a distance sufficient to prevent unsightliness or discomfort. In the background are the large “cotton-houses,” with their bleaching-platforms, the “gin-house,” the corn-house, the fodder-house and the poultry-house, which is nearly as large as any of them; while nearer the mansion are grouped the “loom-house,” the dairy and the oven-shed, under which is built the huge brick oven capable of baking to a sugary confection several bushels of yam “slips” at a time. On the left is the “negro-yard” (never called “the quarter” in this region), with its fifty or sixty substantial cabins, each gleaming with whitewash and having its own little vegetable patch and chicken-house.
It is Saturday evening, and the sun is just entering the heavy cloud-bank which rests on the western horizon as we drive up to the door. Our genial and venerable host, “the old doctor,” is at the stables superintending the feeding of his horses, and thither we bend our steps with a sense of exhilaration which only the crisp, fresh country air can impart, and a new vigor thrilling through every muscle as the foot presses the green and springy sod. Our old friend is a worthy representative of the old _regime_, the only change which the lapse of thirty years has made in his costume being the substitution of black for blue broadcloth in the velvet-collared, brass-buttoned, narrow-skirted coat with its side-pocket flaps. The collar sits as high in the neck; the red silk handkerchief peeps out behind; the trousers are cut with the “full fall,” over which hangs the watch fob-chain with its heavy seals; the low-crowned beaver hat has the same wide brim; and the silver snuff-box is still redolent of Scotch maccaboy.
“The hounds have got fat waiting for you, and the birds are almost tame enough to put salt on their tails,” says the old gentleman after the hearty welcome is over. “Old Nannie says the foxes are eating up all her turkeys, and Loudon tells me that he sees deer-tracks coming out of the new ground every morning.”
“How _are_ ye, gentlemen?” says stout John Myers, the “obeshay,” which is negro for “overseer.”–“I say, there! you Cuffee, that basket ain’t half full o’ corn.–I s’pose you’re goin’ to clean out all the game by Chris’mas?–You Caesar, why don’t you fill up old Chester’s stall with trash? You niggers are gittin’ too lazy to live;” and he walks off to see that the negroes, who are watching us with open mouths and eyes, do not allow their astonishment to interfere with the comfort of the horses. Five sturdy negro men are doing the work of two boys, forking in the “pine-trash” from the huge pile outside, and bringing ear-corn in oak bushel-baskets on their shoulders from the corn-house three hundred yards away.
We cross over to this building when the stable-door has been locked and watch the eager crowd which is waiting for the weekly “‘lowance.” Sturdy, strapping women, with muscular arms and stout calves freely displayed under the skirts which are tucked around their waists, are standing in picturesque attitudes or sitting on their upturned baskets, while ragged, wild-looking little “picknies” are clinging to the said skirts and peeping with great staring eyes at the strange “buckrah man.” Each will take the week’s supply of ear-corn and potatoes for her household–a peck for each member of the family, large and small–and will grind her own grist at the mill-house, or more probably trade away the entire supply at the cross-roads store for flour, sugar and coffee.
“Why, Rose, is that you? How are you, and how are the children?”
“De Lawd! Wha’ dat? who dat da’ talk me? Bless de Lawd! da’ nyoung maussa! Ki! enty you tek wife yet? Go ‘way! Look! he done got bayd (beard) same like ole nanny-goat! Bless de Lawd!”
“I’m glad to see you looking so young, Kitty: your children must be grown up.”
“Tenk de Lawd, maussa,” with a low curtsey, “I day yah yet! Dem pickny, da big man an’ ‘oman now. Enty you got one piece t’bacca fo’ po’ ole nigger?”
The tobacco is forthcoming, together with a few gaudy head-handkerchiefs and little parcels of sugar, and “nyoung maussa” has it all his own way with the simple creatures. These negroes are as near the original wild African type as if a few years instead of more than a century of contact with civilization had passed over them. They are all the direct descendants of original importations, chiefly Ghoolahs and Ashantees; indeed, “Gullah niggah” is a favorite term of playful reproach among them. Their _male_ names are still largely Ashantee, as “Cudjo,” “Cuffee,” “Quarcoo,” “Quashee,” etc., and their dialect, a mixture of “pigeon English” and Ghoolah, strongly impregnated with the French of the Huguenot masters of their forefathers, is simply incomprehensible to a stranger, whether white or black. Indeed, when excited and talking rapidly even those who have grown up among them can scarcely understand the lingo. “Coom, Hondree,” says an old nurse to her little charge at bedtime, “le’ we tek fire go atop:” in English, “Come, Henry, let’s take a light and go up stairs.” “Child” is “pickny;” “white man” (or woman), “buckrah;” “I don’t know,” “Me no sabbee;” “Is it not?” “Enty?”; “watermelon” is “attermillion” or “mutwilliam;” and so on.
Paying a medical visit, I enter a house where the patient is a sick child: the old crone who is sitting in the doorway with a boy’s head between her knees, performing the office of which monkeys are so fond, calls out, “Lindy! de buckrah coom.”
“What’s the matter with the child?” I inquire.
“Ki, maussa! me no sabbee wha’ do a pickny,” replies the intelligent Lindy, who wishes me to know that she knows nothing about the case.
We shall see more of them before leaving the plantation.
A day on the water and a long drive are excellent preparatives for a supper of broad rice-waffles toasted crisp and brown before the crackling hickory fire, of smoking spare-ribs and luscious tripe, of rich, fragrant Java coffee with boiled milk and cream; nor does a sound night’s sleep unfit one for enjoying at breakfast a repetition of the same, substituting link sausages and black pudding for the tripe and spare-ribs, and superadding feathery muffins and soft-boiled eggs.
It is Sunday morning, but the service to-day is at the other end of the parish, some twenty miles away. The sky seems brighter and the grass more green than on the work-days of the week: the birds sing more cheerily, and seem to know that for one day they are safe from man’s persecution. Certain it is that the wary crow will on that day eye you saucily as you pass within ten yards of him, while on any other you cannot approach him within a hundred. At ten o’clock the household is assembled in the drawing-room, the piano–with, it may be, a flute accompaniment–is made to do the organ’s duty, and the full service of the Prayer-Book is read and sung and listened to with reverent attention. There are yet two hours to dinner, and as the wild, wailing chant from the negro-yard comes to our ears we determine to visit their chapel. If there was one point in which, more than in others, the Carolina planter was faithful to his duty, it was in securing the privileges of religion to his slaves. Every plantation had its chapel, sometimes rivaling in its appointments the churches for the whites. One of the largest congregations of the Protestant Episcopal Church in South Carolina, having lost its silver during the sack of Columbia, is still using the sterling communion service of a chapel for negroes which was burned upon a neighboring plantation. The missionary is to-day upon another portion of his circuit, and we have a specimen of genuine African Christianity. On one side the rough benches are filled with men clad, for once in the week, in _clean_ cotton shirts, with coat and pants of heavy “white plains,” some young dandies here and there being “fixed up” with old black silk waistcoats and flashy neckties, holding conspicuously old mashed beaver hats, which have been carefully wetted to make them shine. On the other are ranged the women, the front benches holding the sedate old “maumas,” with gaudy yellow and red kerchiefs tied about their heads in stiff high turbans, and others folded _a la_ Lady Washington over their bosoms; behind them sit the young women in white woolen “frocks,” without handkerchiefs on head or breast; while the children who are not minding babies at home or hunting rabbits in the woods are gathered about the door.
Old Bob, the preacher, rises and fixes his eyes severely on the small fry near the door: “We’s gwine to wushup de Lawd, an’ I desiah dem chilluns to know dat no noise nor laffin’, nor no so’t o’ onbehavin’, kin be ‘lowed; so min’ wot you’s ’bout dere. You yerry me? (hear me).”
Then, adjusting the great silver-rimmed spectacles and opening a ragged prayer-book (upside down), he proceeds to read over the hymn, the whole congregation listening with rapt attention. As he utters the last word all rise together, the old women with closed eyes, heads on one side and hands crossed over their breasts, and he begins to “line out,” dividing the words rhythmically into spondaic measure, with the accent strongly on every second syllable and the falling inflection invariably on the last uttered:
When I’–kin read’–my ti’–tul clear’– To man’–shuns in’–de skies’.
Immediately the old mauma at the end of the front bench “sets de tchune,” a sad, quavering minor, and pitched so high that any attempt to follow it seems utterly hopeless. But no: the women all strike in on the same soaring key, while the men, by a skillful management of the _falsetto_, keep up with the screamiest flights. As they wail out the last word, “skies,” the women all curtsey with a sharp jerk of the body and the men droop their heads upon their breasts–a token that the strophe is ended; and the next two lines follow in the same manner. Then follows the prayer, in which due remembrance is made of “ole maussa” and “nyoung missis an’ maussa,” and all their friends and visitors. We are considerate enough to withdraw before the sermon, lest our presence should embarrass the preacher, but a little eavesdropping gives us an opportunity of hearing how practically he deals with “lyin’ an’ tiefin’, an’ onbehavin’ ‘mongst de nyoung ‘omans,” and how he holds up “de obeshay,” as Saint Paul did the magistrate, in terror to those who “play ‘possum w’en de grass too t’ick,” or “stick t’orn in he finger so he can’t pick ’nuff cotton w’en de sun too hot.” With our withdrawal is removed a restraint which has chilled the active devotion of the assembly, and soon the singing begins again, accompanied now, however, by the heavy tramp of feet and the clapping of hands keeping time to the sad, wailing minor which characterizes all their music. The hymn, too, is no longer selected from the prayer-book, but from some unwritten collection better adapted to their ideas of “heart-religion”:
De angel cry out A-men,
A-men! A-men!
De angel cry out A-men!
I’se bound to de promis’ lan’!
I da gwine up to hebbin in a long w’ite robe, Long w’ite robe! long w’ite robe!
My Sabiour tell me wear dat robe
W’en I meet him in de promis’ lan’!
We’ve a great deal before us during the coming week, for we must give a day to the partridges (never called “quail” in the South), and we have a fox-hunt or two in the mornings, and that old buck to look after whose tracks I showed you in the road; besides the ducks and turkeys which are waiting to be shot, and all the Christmas frolicking, from which the ladies will not excuse us. We will therefore take this quiet Sunday afternoon for a walk among the fields and woods to see what manner of country we are in. Bending our steps first toward the huge old oak which seems to hang upon the very edge of the green hill near the house, we suddenly find ourselves just over a large basin enclosed with an octagonal brick wall, except where the clear water runs out over silvery gravel between curbings of heavy plank. This is the spring, and a queer sort of spring it is. Just under the tree-roots the water is but a few inches deep over a bed of bluish-gray limestone, and in no part of the basin, which is about twelve by twenty feet, does it seem to be more than a half fathom in depth. But just under the ledge of rock a shelving hole slopes back under the hill, the bottom of which no man has ever found. This hole is only about three feet by two, and the narrow outlet to the basin is but four inches deep, and loses itself within fifty yards in an oozy bog. Yet, peering into the depth, you catch a glimpse of the black head and beady white eyes of a mudfish at least two feet long, and presently of the silvery side of a three-pound bass which glides across the opening. Drop a line with the cork set at ten feet, and you will draw out of the very bosom of the earth a mess of fat perch and bream each as large and as thick as your hand, and eels three feet in length are sometimes caught in the basin at night. Two miles away, in the direction of the “run,” there are on Woodboo plantation two similar basins connected by a shallow streamlet, and with no outlet which a minnow could navigate: one of them is large enough for a little skiff to float on, and the gray rock slopes down to a centre depth of ten feet. Just where the sides meet is a long, irregular fissure, out of which huge bass, pike, jack and mudfish are constantly emerging, and into which they retreat when disturbed. Hundreds of perch, bream and young bass sport in the shallow parts, and are easily caught with rod and line, the water being so clear that you can watch the fish gorging the bait, and strike when the entire hook disappears. Now, where do these fish live? where do they breed? and upon what do they feed? But the mystery does not end there. About a mile in the opposite direction as we walk through a little belt of wet pineland, where the woodcock runs across our path or whistles up from the wet leaves, we come suddenly upon a dozen or more little basins, the largest not over six feet by nine, which have no outlet whatever. One hole about two feet in diameter goes sheer down between two pine trees to a depth never yet fathomed: you cannot see it until right on it, and you cannot use a rod, but drop your line about twelve feet deep, and your cork will go down like lead, while you pull up red perch and blue bream until your arm wearies of the sport. I have caught five dozen in a winter’s afternoon, for the fish bite best in the coldest weather, the temperature of the water being sixty-two degrees the year round, irrespective of the weather. You must go fifteen miles before reaching another of these springs or fountains, and then ten more to the last of the chain, the famous Eutaw Springs of Revolutionary memory. Here, then, must be a subterranean river or reservoir at least twenty-eight miles long, teeming with the same fish which swim in the surface-streams, yet having no discoverable connection with any of these. We meet with no rocks or stones anywhere, but our walk leads us past many marl-pits from which numerous fossil remains have been obtained. The fertile and superstitious imagination of the negroes has not been idle in such a suggestive field, and they have peopled these fountains with spirits which they call “cymbies,” akin to the undine and the kelpie. On Saturday nights you may hear a strange rhythmic, thumping sound from the spring, and looking out you may see by the wild, fitful glare of lightwood torches dark figures moving to and fro. These are the negro women at their laundry-work, knee-deep in the stream, beating the clothes with heavy clubs. They are merry enough when together, but not one of them will go alone for a “piggin” of water, and if you slip up in the shadow of the old oak and throw a stone into the spring, the entire party will rush away at the splash, screaming with fear, convinced that the “cymbie” is after them.
Leaving the spring behind us, we pass up the long lane between two cotton-fields of a hundred acres each, in which the blackened stalks are still standing, as are the dried cornstalks and gray pea-vines in the field beyond. These will remain until the early spring, when they will be cut down and “listed in” with the hoe, for not a foot of this rich and profitable plantation has ever been broken with the plough. Incredible as it may appear, there is not a plough or a work-horse, and but one old mule, upon this highly-cultivated tract of one thousand acres. All the hauling is done by ox-teams, with three sturdy negroes to each cart, and the heavy cotton-hoe does everything else. Where one man and a plough could till three acres, twenty men and women with hoes ‘ridge up the ground, scatter manure in the furrows, and draw the ridges down on it again. True, the surface only is scratched, and the soil is soon exhausted, but who cares for that when there is abundance of rich timber-land from which to clear new fields? and as to economizing labor, that is the last thing a planter cares about, for what are the negroes to do? None are ever sold, the “picknies” who swarm around every cabin growing up to stock the plantations bought for each child as he or she “comes of age or is married,” and work has to be made for them to do.
“What shall I put the hands at to-day, sir?” asked an overseer of an old planter when the last bale of cotton had been packed.
“Hum! let’s see! Well, set them to filling up the old ditches and digging new ones.”
For the same reason power-gins and saw-mills found little favor, the single-treadle “foot-gin” and the saw-pit and cross-cut employing ten times as many hands. It was the aim of every large planter to produce and manufacture by hand-power everything needed on the place. Of course, it required a heavy expenditure of labor and land to raise provisions for such an army of unprofitable workers, on which account slave capital was the poorest paying property in the world. The planter was wealthy, but he owned only land and negroes: when the latter were emancipated the former became useless; and this is the reason why the war so utterly ruined the rich land-owners of the South.
ROBERT WILSON.
OUR MONTHLY GOSSIP.
’76.
Pass, ’75, across the Styx!
Make way for stately ’76,
Who comes with mincing, minuet pace, Well-powdered hair and patch-deckt face– An antiquated kerchief on:
White-capped, like Martha Washington; Clock-hosed and high-heeled slipper-shod, To give no Nineteenth Century nod;
Nay, but a courtesy profound,
Whose look demure consults the ground. O rare-seen bloom! No flower perennial, This aloe-crowned Dame Centennial!
She comes with shades of days long fled– Knee-breeched; long silk-stockinged;
Well-braided queues; bright-buckled shoon That flash with diamonds; gold galloon
On rebel uniforms of blue—
A color that this land found _true_; Three-cornered hats, and plumes that flew Through conflicts where men dare and do. A patriot throng, a gallant host,
Our Dame Centennial’s train can boast.
O aloe-flower upon her brow!
Of what strange birth-pangs breathest thou, The while we gaze with dreamy eyes
Back o’er a sea of memories,
And see thy seed of foreign skies
Here washt, to spring beneath our sun And ripen till its bloom is won!
What storms have rocked thy stem aslant, O changeful-nurtured Century-Plant!
Whose living flower now opens bland Its kindly promise o’er the land!
With blood and tears ’twas watered, The bud whose blossom now is spread
A floral cap her head upon,
Who, _a la_ Martha Washington,
Our Dame Centennial now appears,
Our ’76, our crown of years!
Brave preparations thee await,
O dame arrayed in olden state!
For thee, for thee, Penn’s city stands And stretches forth inviting hands
To guests of home and foreign lands, And gathers all historic pride
Of ancient records at her side,
With gifts from all, on thee to rain Who bring’st such mem’ries in thy train.
Hail, city well named “Brother’s Love!” The Quaker City of the dove,
That fain would call a land to fling Its spites away, and ‘neath thy wing
Renew the treaty made by Penn
In the wildwood with wilder men;
Yet true men still! Be this the token— loyal faith, a pledge unbroken!
O year that wear’st thy aloe-flower
So proudly! may thy touch have power Of healing! May thy visage bland
Drive threatening discord from the land, And throned Peace more firmly fix!
Then shall the elder ’76,
From out the eighteenth century’s band Of Time’s host in the shadowy land,
Greet thee as one true soul may smile Upon another, where nor guile
Nor sorrow can its brightness dim. So greet the clear-eyed seraphim–
So once in Eden’s sinless bower
Unfading flower smiled on flower.
LATIENNE.
THE KREUZESSCHULE.
OBER-AMMERGAU, BAVARIA, OCT. 4, 1875.
The town lies at the end of a lovely green valley. Behind it are fir-clad mountains with rocky peaks: on one side a great square rocky peak, which towers above all and is surmounted by a cross. On each side of the valley sloping hills, fir-clad to the top. A rapid, clear stream runs by on the edge of the village. Green pastures dotted with haymakers, a few scattered trees and a distant town fill the charming valley. Virginia creepers hang on the walls, and gay flowers fill pretty balconies and peep through sunny little casements. All is simple and neat, and the bright fresco pictures on the fronts of many houses lighten it all.
On a high hill overlooking the town they are placing a colossal crucifixion group, presented by King Ludwig II. in _Erinnerung an die Passionsspiele_–in memory of the Passion play–Christ on the cross, with the Virgin and St. John, one on each side. The two latter were ready to be hoisted on to the pedestal: the former is partly up the hill. All are surrounded by heavy planking, so that it is impossible to judge of the artistic merit, but the great group cannot fail to have a fine effect when viewed from a distance.
Yesterday (October 3d) was the eventful day. Our tickets had been ordered by telegraph, and we had “the best seats.” The performance was to begin at nine o’clock, and at a quarter before nine we were in our places.
The building in which the play is given is of plain rough wood without paint (“or polish”); in the interior a gallery and two side-galleries, below them a parterre, and on each side of it a standing-place, all of plain, unpainted boards. The orchestra was sunk below the level of the stage, the proscenium painted to represent columns and entablature. The curtain represented, or seemed intended to represent, Jerusalem. The whole place could not probably contain over six hundred people, and was about half full. There were very few foreigners.
The play to be represented was not the “Passion play,” which is given every ten years, but the _Kreuzesschule_, which is played once in fifty years–last in 1825. In it the play is taken from the Old Testament, and the tableaux from the New Testament–the reverse of the Passion play.
The orchestra began punctually at nine o’clock. There were about twenty performers, and they played with skill and taste. The selection of music was admirable. They commenced with a sort of prelude, slow and declamatory. Perfect silence reigned, and the deep interest of the spectators was, from the first and throughout, shown in their expressive faces. Men and women at times shed tears, and made not the slightest effort to hide their emotion. The black head-*kerchiefs of many of the women spectators, tight to the skull with ends hanging down behind, seemed in harmony with the scene.
The prelude ended, the Chorus entered with slow and dignified pace–seven men and women from one side, six from the other, all in a kind of Oriental costume, picturesque and handsome. The tallest came first, and so on in gradation, so that when ranged in front of the curtain they formed a kind of pyramid. The central figure then began the prologue, an explanation. Then the basso commenced singing an air, during which the Chorus divided, falling back to the sides and kneeling, while the curtain rose, displaying the first tableau. This lasted nearly three minutes, during which time the figures were really perfectly motionless. The basso finished his air and the tenor sang another while the curtain was up. This tableau represented the cross supported by an angel, while grouped around were men, women and children looking up at it in adoration. This was the “Kreuzesschule”–the school of the Cross–the prologue to the piece. The picture had the simplicity of the best school: no affected attitudes–all plain, earnest and beautiful. When the curtain fell the Chorus again took their places in front of it, a duet was sung, then a chorus, and then they countermarched and retired in quiet dignity.
Then came the first part. A prelude by the orchestra, and the curtain rises on Abel, dressed in sheep skin, by his altar, from which smoke ascends, he returning thanks. Enter Cain in leopard skin, much disturbed and angry. They discourse, Abel all sweetness, Cain bitter and cross. An angel in blue mantle, like one of Raphael’s in the “Loggia,” appears at the side and comforts Abel. Then Eve in white dress–evidently it had been a puzzle to dress her–and buskins, who says sweet words to Cain. Then Adam in sheep skin, very sad at all this difficulty. Eve sweetly strives to reconcile Cain to his brother, and appeals to him with much feeling. He discourses at length, then appears to relent and embraces Abel, but is evidently playing the hypocrite, and as the curtain falls you see that hate is in his heart.
The curtain down, the orchestra plays a prelude, the Chorus enters as before, and the leader speculates on Cain’s behavior. “Is he honest?”–“Ah no, his heart is full of hate: he meditates evil.” The Chorus divides as before, falls back and the curtain rises. This tableau represents the hate and rage of the people and Pharisees toward Christ, who drives the traders out of the Temple. In grouping, costume, color, tone, action and completeness it was truly a marvelous picture. The stage was crowded with figures: Christ in the centre, behind–a row of columns on each side–a scourge in his left hand, his right upheld in admirable action; in the background a group in wild confusion; on the right, richly dressed priests and Pharisees, indignant and fierce; in front, sellers of sheep and doves, money-changers and traders of various kinds. All the elements of a great picture were here shown in the highest degree, and no words of praise could be too strong to express the idea of its merits and its charm. This tableau lasted nearly two minutes, with the most complete steadiness, the basso singing an aria. The curtain then fell, and the Chorus, taking its place, sang and retired as before. This ended the first part, Cain’s hate prefiguring the hatred toward Christ.
Then came Part Second. The curtain rose on Cain by the side of his ruined in a soliloquy. Enter Abel, gentle and mild. Eve comes in, and again tries to make peace, and Cain again plays the hypocrite and invites his brother into the wood on some pretext. They retire, leaving Eve disturbed by she knows not what. Adam enters, shares her fears and goes out to seek his sons. Thunder and lightning, admirably represented, and then enter Cain disheveled and disturbed. His mother knows not what has happened, but is agonized and calls for her Abel. An angel appears at the side and discloses all by asking Cain, “Where is thy brother?” and then announcing the fiat of the Most High to him. He rushes off as Adam enters bearing the body of Abel; and his mother, sitting down beside the dead body, makes a most touching picture of a _Pieta_. Adam with upstretched arms appeals to God, and the curtain falls. This was the “Blutschuld”–the crime of blood–and prefigured the betrayal of Christ by Judas for the thirty pieces of silver.
After a most beautiful prelude by the orchestra, the Chorus again enters; the leader expresses his horror at Cain’s action and his pity for a fate thus given over to Satan; they again divide, and the curtain rises on the tableau of Judas receiving the money. At the end the high priest and other priests, in appropriate costume, stand on a platform beyond a railing. Judas in the centre, by a table, is taking the money from an attendant: all around are groups, admirably arranged, expressing, in face and attitude, wonder or pleasure or disgust. The same artistic ideas and beautiful arrangement and the same unaffected simplicity. This tableau lasted one minute and a half, while the tenor sang an aria, “Oh, better for him that he had never been born.”
The third part was _Das Opfermahl_–the offering of bread and wine by Melchisedek to Abraham, prefiguring the Last Supper. Prelude by orchestra. The curtain rises, displaying Melchisedek before an altar, on which are bread and wine. Four attendants are near him. He, in a flowing white robe, discourses to them. The scene is simple and natural. Enter Abraham and attendants on one side and Lot and attendants on the other, all dressed in Roman mantles, buskins and helmets. The stage was filled and the grouping admirable. Abraham and Lot discourse, embrace and part, Lot and his followers retiring. Melchisedek comes forward and addresses Abraham, who replies at some length. Then Melchisedek prepares his bread and wine, takes some, then offers to Abraham, who eats and drinks. Meantime, a most charming chorus of Handel is sung behind the scenes, while Melchisedek and his attendants offer the bread and wine to all of Abraham’s suite, who partake reverentially. Tableau and chorus, and the curtain descends. The ease and simple quiet action of all this scene were remarkable.
Enter Chorus as before: leader speaks. They divide and the curtain rises on the tableau of the Last Supper. I know not whether it was taken from any one picture–I think not–but it was simply and effectively grouped, and it recalled both Lionardo and Andrea del Sarto. This lasted two and a half minutes, during which time the contralto sang an air of Mozart’s.
The fourth part–_Die Ergebung_ (Resignation)–was represented in the play by Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son at God’s command, prefiguring the agony of Christ in the Garden.
After a prelude by the orchestra the curtain rose and discovered Abraham and Isaac in loving discourse, with figures in the background, admirably costumed and grouped. An angel in white robe and blue mantle appears and delivers his heavenly message to the astounded Abraham. His agony was simply and feelingly depicted. He appears at last resigned, when Sarah, in red robe and Eastern headdress, enters to renew his grief. The beauty of this woman was of the highest order in feature and expression, and her dress was truly artistic. The scene between these two was most touchingly acted. Isaac reappears, thinking that he is simply going on a journey, and, scarcely comprehending his mother’s great grief, presents his companion to her as a comfort and stay, thus prefiguring John and Mary at the cross. Abraham and Isaac depart, and the curtain falls.
Then another prelude by the orchestra, and the Chorus appears: the leader delivers the epilogue. They divide and kneel, and the curtain rises on the tableau of the scene in Gethsemane.
Christ, on an elevation, is kneeling: an angel stands in front of him. Below, the apostles are all asleep in groups. Behind, in the centre, Judas advances with the soldiers, who bear tall lanterns. It was like a picture of Carpaccio, and worthy of that great master. This tableau lasted two and a quarter minutes, during which time the tenor sang an aria.
The fifth part–_Es ist vollbracht_ (It is fulfilled)–represents Abraham going out to sacrifice his son, prefiguring the Crucifixion. The curtain rises on Sarah, full of agony, which is most simply and powerfully depicted. Attendants enter, who tell a long story: then Abraham and Isaac appear, and there is a most striking scene–Sarah fainting, the friend sustaining her, the others grouped around in various picturesque attitudes. An angel appears, simple and practical, like those of the good old painters, and delivers the blessing. The curtain falls.
Again the orchestra in a superb prelude: then the Chorus appears, and, after the epilogue, divides and kneels as the curtain rises on a tableau which my imagination never could have pictured, for its wonderful completeness, its power, its feeling, its artistic beauty and its marvelous expression far exceeded any idea that I had of the power of men and women to represent such a picture–the Crucifixion.
The stage was crowded with figures, Christ in the centre, fully extended on the cross, with no signs whatever of support to disturb the illusion–the thieves on one side and the other, with arms over the cross, as frequently represented; the group at the foot of the cross so touchingly tender–the soldiers, the priests, the people–all grouped with such consummate skill, such harmony of colors, such appropriateness and vigor of expression, as have never, to my thinking, been excelled in the greatest pictures of the greatest masters. Here was most remarkably shown the wonderful artistic talent and feeling of these simple people. There was nothing repulsive in any way, scarcely painful, except tenderly so. You breathlessly gazed on this wondrous scene, and when, after three minutes, the curtain fell, you were speechless with admiration and emotion. A lovely air by the soprano accompanied this tableau, and after the curtain fell a grand chorus completed the fifth part.
The sixth part–_Durch Dunkel zum Lichte_ (through Darkness to Light)–ended the programme. The play represented Joseph, with all his honors upon him, receiving his old father and his brothers–prefiguring the Ascension of Christ.
After the prelude by the orchestra the curtain rises and discovers old Jacob, surrounded by his sons in various groups. The scene and costumes were admirable and appropriate. In the midst of a discourse Joseph bursts in in fine attire, followed by a great train, among which are two darkies, taken bodily from Flemish pictures. After much embracing and blessing and forgiveness, the curtain falls as Jacob with outstretched arms thanks the Lord and prophesies all good things.
Then again the orchestra, and again our Chorus enters on the scene, and after the epilogue, “At last all woe is ended,” they divide and kneel, as the curtain rises on the scene of the Ascension. This was most simply represented. Christ ascends from the tomb, standing on it, surrounded by angels, while figures appropriately grouped around make a picture which recalled Perugino. The basso sings an aria, and a grand chorus, “Alleluja!” ends this most remarkable performance.
There was no delay nor interruption throughout. Not the sound of a hammer nor the whisper of a prompter was ever heard. There was no applause whatever from the audience until the end, and then it seemed to come from the strangers. The three hours–for the end was precisely at twelve–seemed not more than one, so filled was the mind with the simple, grand beauty and the artistic completeness of the whole thing. No personality appears for an instant. There are no bills to tell the names of the actors, nor did any actor or actress at any time look toward the audience.
Never since early childhood have the Bible stories been brought back with such vividness, such tender and absorbing interest. Tradition, faith and earnestness have made this a people of artists. If one could believe, as all must wish, that love of money-making and speculation will not invade this simple village, to the demoralization of its people, the satisfaction would be most complete. Be that as it may, I shall always owe a debt of gratitude to Ober-Ammergau, and as long as memory lasts shall remember _Die Kreuzesschule_.
J.W.F.
VARESE.
Varese is an ancient little town on a hill overlooking the small lake of the same name in the midst of the mountainous country between Como and Lago Maggiore, and a little to the southward of the Lake of Lugano. It is within a very few miles of the Swiss frontier. All this lacustrine region has for many generations been celebrated as a specially privileged one. It is Italy without the enervating heat and aridity which are such serious drawbacks to the enjoyment of its other charms by Northern folk. It is Switzerland without the rigidity of its climate and the comparative poverty of the northern vegetation. You have the oleander and cactus around your feet, while the snow-peaks high above your head are rose-colored morning and evening by a southern sun. You wander amid groves of Spanish chestnut, and may hear the while the Swiss-sounding cattle-bells from Alpine pastures high above them. The lakes themselves, with their branching arms and bays and their fairy-like islands, are of course a feature of ever-varying and incomparable beauty.
Accordingly, Fortune’s favorites of all countries have long, even from the old Roman times downward, thickly studded the district with their villas and gardens and palaces and parks. But the possession of a villa on one of the Italian lakes implies that the happy owner is nothing very much less than a millionaire. And it has been reserved for these quite latter days to find the means of placing within the reach of the many all the delights which were heretofore the exclusive privilege of the few. In no instance has this been done with so complete a measure of success as at Varese. The hotel is situated about a mile from the little town. Its gardens look down on the lake, the intervening slope being covered with forest. To the left, as one stands at the garden-front of the house, looking toward the lake, are the hills in the midst of which the Lake of Lugano nestles, and on the right, beyond the Lago Maggiore, is a view of Monte Rosa with its eternal snows, perhaps the finest to be found anywhere. I have seen Monte Rosa and its chain very finely from the top of the pass called the Col di Tenda, between Turin and Nice, but I think the view from the terrace in front of this house is finer. Immediately at the back of the house we have the hills–mountains they would be called in any other part of Europe–of which Monte Generoso, now covered with snow, though with a hotel on the top, is the most conspicuous. The country more immediately around us is a district of rolling hills, partly vineyard, but in a larger degree wooded, and here and there diversified by the well-cared-for gardens of some large villa. Our outlook, it will be admitted, is pleasant enough. The house I am speaking of, now known under the style and title of the “Excelsior Hotel,” was recently a magnificent villa of the Morosini family at Venice. The name will not be new to any who have visited Venice; for the traveler, even if his tastes did not lead him to take any heed of such matters, will not have been allowed by the _ciceroni_ to overlook the tombs of the doges of that family in the grand old church of the beheaded Saint John, _San Giovanni decollata,_ or “San Zuan Degola,” as the soft-lisping Venetians call it. Yes, the Morosini were very great men in their day: more than one of the brightest chapters in the history of the great republic on the Adriatic is filled with their name. But now their place knows them no more: the family is extinct. The last scion of the race, an old lady who died quite recently at Varese, is said to have declared that it was time for a Morosini to retire from the scene when their house was about to be turned into an inn. Poor old lady! One could have wished that she had vanished before that desecration had been threatened, especially as her end was so near at hand; for it would, I fear, have been too much to wish that the Excelsior Hotel should have been kept out of existence for another generation.
The Morosini had palaces among the most splendid of that city of palaces, Venice, as may be seen to the present day. But this Varese villa was their place of delight and enjoyment. And truly the ideas which we generally attach to the word “villa” are scarcely represented by the magnificent building to which the public are now indiscriminately invited. It is an enormous pile of building, the vast garden-frontage of which makes considerable claims to architectural magnificence. There are, especially in Switzerland, very magnificent and palace-like hotels which have been built for the purpose they now serve, but the fact that they were so built has very effectually prevented even the most splendid among them from rivaling, or indeed approaching, the grandiose magnificence of this superb hostelrie, which has chosen its name in no idle spirit of vaunting. For building is costly, space is precious, and the necessity of finding a due return for the capital employed is the paramount rule which the architect has to keep ever in mind. The old Morosini, who raised this pile with the abundant profits of the trade with the East when Venice had the monopoly of it, were curbed in their architectural ambition by no such considerations. The building of this Villa Morosini must have cost a sum which no possible amount of success in the way of hotel-keeping could ever be expected to pay a tolerable interest on. But the sum for which it was purchased by the present proprietors by no means represents the whole of the capital which has been expended on it as it now stands. It needed the expenditure of no less a sum than sixty thousand pounds sterling to adapt it in all respects to its present purpose, and it is now really such a hotel as does not exist elsewhere in Europe. The whole of the ground floor of the vast building, looking in its entire length on the trimly-kept gardens and on the lake below them, is devoted to public rooms, the spaciousness of which is such that even if the entire house were filled to its utmost capacity they would never be in the least degree crowded. First on the right hand is the breakfast-room. Then comes an enormous dining-hall, the coved ceiling of which, supported by noble pillars