TO MAKE BEEF TEA.
1858. INGREDIENTS.–1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, 1 quart of water, 1 saltspoonful of salt.
_Mode_.–Have the meat cut without fat and bone, and choose a nice fleshy piece. Cut it into small pieces about the size of dice, and put it into a clean saucepan. Add the water _cold_ to it; put it on the fire, and bring it to the boiling-point; then skim well. Put in the salt when the water boils, and _simmer_ the beef tea _gently_ from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, removing any more scum should it appear on the surface. Strain the tea through a hair sieve, and set it by in a cool place. When wanted for use, remove every particle of fat from the top; warm up as much as may be required, adding, if necessary, a little more salt. This preparation is simple beef tea, and is to be administered to those invalids to whom flavourings and seasonings are not allowed. When the patient is very low, use double the quantity of meat to the same proportion of water. Should the invalid be able to take the tea prepared in a more palatable manner, it is easy to make it so by following the directions in the next recipe, which is an admirable one for making savoury beef tea. Beef tea is always better when made the day before it is wanted, and then warmed up. It is a good plan to put the tea into a small cup or basin, and to place this basin in a saucepan of boiling water. When the tea is warm, it is ready to serve.
_Time_.–1/4 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per pint.
_Sufficient_.–Allow 1 lb. of meat for a pint of good beef tea.
MISS NIGHTINGALE says, one of the most common errors among nurses, with respect to sick diet, is the belief that beef tea is the most nutritive of all article. She says, “Just try and boil down a lb. of beef into beef tea; evaporate your beef tea, and see what is left of your beef: you will find that there is barely a teaspoonful of solid nourishment to 1/4 pint of water in beef tea. Nevertheless, there is a certain reparative quality in it,–we do not know what,–as there is in tea; but it maybe safely given in almost any inflammatory disease, and is as little to be depended upon with the healthy or convalescent, where much nourishment is required.”
SAVOURY BEEF TEA.
(_Soyer’s Recipe_.)
1859. INGREDIENTS.–1 lb. of solid beef, 1 oz. of butter, 1 clove, 2 button onions or 1/2 a large one, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 quart of water.
_Mode_.–Cut the beef into very small dice; put it into a stewpan with the butter, clove, onion, and salt; stir the meat round over the fire for a few minutes, until it produces a thin gravy; then add the water, and let it simmer gently from 1/2 to 3/4 hour, skimming off every particle of fat. When done, strain it through a sieve, and put it by in a cool place until required. The same, if wanted quite plain, is done by merely omitting the vegetables, salt, and clove; the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming.
_Time_.–1/2 to 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 8d. per pint. _Sufficient_.–Allow 1 lb. of beef to make 1 pint of good beef tea.
_Note_.–The meat loft from beef tea may be boiled a little longer, and pounded, with spices, &c., for potting. It makes a very nice breakfast dish.
DR. CHRISTISON says that “every one will be struck with the readiness with which certain classes of patients will often take diluted meat juice, or beef tea repeatedly, when they refuse all other kinds of food.” This is particularly remarkable in case of gastric fever, in which, he says, little or nothing else besides beef tea, or diluted meat juice, has been taken for weeks, or even months; and yet a pint of beef tea contains scarcely 1/4 oz. of anything but water. The result is so striking, that he asks, “What is its mode of action? Not simple nutriment; 1/4 oz. of the most nutritive material cannot nearly replace the daily wear and tear of the tissue in any circumstances.” Possibly, he says, it belongs to a new denomination of remedies.
BAKED BEEF TEA.
1860. INGREDIENTS.–1 lb. of fleshy beef, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt.
_Mode_.–Cut the beef into small square pieces, after trimming off all the fat, and put it into a baking-jar, with the above proportion of water and salt; cover the jar well, place it in a warm, but not hot oven, and bake for 3 or 4 hours. When the oven is very fierce in the daytime, it is a good plan to put the jar in at night, and let it remain till the next morning, when the tea will be done. It should be strained, and put by in a cool place until wanted. It may also be flavoured with an onion, a clove, and a few sweet herbs, &c., when the stomach is sufficiently strong to take those.
_Time_.–3 or 4 hours, or to be left in the oven all night.
_Average cost_, 6d. per pint.
_Sufficient_.–Allow 1 lb. of meat for 1 pint of good beef tea.
BAKED OR STEWED CALF’S FOOT.
1861. INGREDIENTS.–1 calf’s foot, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 blade of mace, the rind of 1/4 lemon, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.–Well clean the foot, and either stew or bake it in the milk-and-water with the other ingredients from 3 to 4 hours. To enhance the flavour, an onion and a small quantity of celery may be added, if approved; 1/2 a teacupful of cream, stirred in just before serving, is also a great improvement to this dish.
_Time_.–3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 1 person. _Seasonable_ from March to October.
CALF’S-FOOT BROTH.
1862. INGREDIENTS.–1 calf’s foot, 3 pints of water, 1 small lump of sugar, nutmeg to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, a piece of butter the size of a nut.
_Mode_.–Stew the foot in the water, with the lemon-peel, very gently, until the liquid is half wasted, removing any scum, should it rise to the surface. Set it by in a basin until quite cold, then take off every particle of fat. Warm up about 1/2 pint of the broth, adding the butter, sugar, and a very small quantity of grated nutmeg; take it off the fire for a minute or two, then add the beaten yolk of the egg; keep stirring over the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil again after the egg is added, or it will curdle, and the broth will be spoiled.
_Time_.–To be boiled until the liquid is reduced one half.
_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each.
_Sufficient_ to make 1-1/4 pint of broth.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
CHICKEN BROTH.
1863. INGREDIENTS.–1/2 fowl, or the inferior joints of a whole one; 1 quart of water, 1 blade of mace, 1/2 onion, a small bunch of sweet herbs, salt to taste, 10 peppercorns.
_Mode_.–An old fowl not suitable for eating may be converted into very good broth, or, if a young one be used, the inferior joints may be put in the broth, and the best pieces reserved for dressing in some other manner. Put the fowl into a saucepan, with all the ingredients, and simmer gently for 1-1/2 hour, carefully skimming the broth well. When done, strain, and put by in a cool place until wanted; then take all the fat off the top, warm up as much as may be required, and serve. This broth is, of course, only for those invalids whose stomachs are strong enough to digest it, with a flavouring of herbs, &c. It may be made in the same manner as beef tea, with water and salt only; but the preparation will be but tasteless and insipid. When the invalid cannot digest this chicken broth with the flavouring, we would recommend plain beef tea in preference to plain chicken tea, which it would be without the addition of herbs, onions, &c.
_Time_.–1-1/2 hour.
_Sufficient_ to make rather more than 1 pint of broth.
NUTRITIOUS COFFEE.
1864. INGREDIENTS.–1/2 oz. of ground coffee, 1 pint of milk.
_Mode_.–Let the coffee be freshly ground; put it into a saucepan, with the milk, which should be made nearly boiling before the coffee is put in, and boil both together for 3 minutes; clear it by pouring some of it into a cup, and then back again, and leave it on the hob for a few minutes to settle thoroughly. This coffee may be made still more nutritious by the addition of an egg well beaten, and put into the coffee-cup.
_Time_.–5 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to settle.
_Sufficient_ to make 1 large breakfast-cupful of coffee.
Our great nurse Miss Nightingale remarks, that “a great deal too much against tea is said by wise people, and a great deal too much of tea is given to the sick by foolish people. When you see the natural and almost universal craving in English sick for their ‘tea,’ you cannot but feel that Nature knows what she is about. But a little tea or coffee restores them quite as much as a great deal; and a great deal of tea, and especially of coffee, impairs the little power of digestion they have. Yet a nurse, because she sees how one or two cups of tea or coffee restore her patient, thinks that three or four cups will do twice as much. This is not the case at all; it is, however, certain that there is nothing yet discovered which is a substitute to the English patient for his cup of tea; he can take it when he can take nothing else, and he often can’t take anything else, if he has it not. Coffee is a better restorative than tea, but a greater impairer of the digestion. In making coffee, it is absolutely necessary to buy it in the berry, and grind it at home; otherwise, you may reckon upon its containing a certain amount of chicory, at least. This is not a question of the taste, or of the wholesomeness of chicory; it is, that chicory has nothing at all of the properties for which you give coffee, and, therefore, you may as well not give it.”
THE INVALID’S CUTLET.
1865. INGREDIENTS.–1 nice cutlet from a loin or neck of mutton, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 very small stick of celery, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.–Have the cutlet cut from a very nice loin or neck of mutton; take off all the fat; put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients; stew _very gently_ indeed for nearly 2 hours, and skim off every particle of fat that may rise to the surface from time to time. The celery should be cut into thin slices before it is added to the meat, and care must be taken not to put in too much of this ingredient, or the dish will not be good. If the water is allowed to boil fast, the cutlet will be hard.
_Time_.–2 hours’ very gentle stewing. _Average cost_, 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 1 person. _Seasonable_ at any time.
EEL BROTH.
1866. INGREDIENTS.–1/2 lb. of eels, a small bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; 1/2 onion, 10 peppercorns, 3 pints of water, 2 cloves, salt and pepper to taste.
_Mode_.–After having cleaned and skinned the eel, cut it into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients; simmer gently until the liquid is reduced nearly half, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Strain it through a hair sieve; put it by in a cool place, and, when wanted, take off all the fat from the top, warm up as much as is required, and serve with sippets of toasted bread. This is a very nutritious broth, and easy of digestion.
_Time_.–To be simmered until the liquor is reduced to half.
_Average cost_, 6d.
_Sufficient_ to make 1-1/2 pint of broth.
_Seasonable_ from June to March.
EGG WINE.
1867. INGREDIENTS.–1 egg, 1 tablespoonful and 1/2 glass of cold water, 1 glass of sherry, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste.
_Mode_.–Beat the egg, mixing with it a tablespoonful of cold water; make the wine-and-water hot, but not boiling; pour it on the egg, stirring all the time. Add sufficient lump sugar to sweeten the mixture, and a little grated nutmeg; put all into a very clean saucepan, set it on a gentle fire, and stir the contents one way until they thicken, but _do not allow them to boil_. Serve in a glass with sippets of toasted bread or plain crisp biscuits. When the egg is not warmed, the mixture will be found easier of digestion, but it is not so pleasant a drink.
_Sufficient_ for 1 person.
TO MAKE GRUEL.
1868. INGREDIENTS.–1 tablespoonful of Robinson’s patent groats, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water.
_Mode_.–Mix the prepared groats smoothly with the cold water in a basin; pour over them the boiling water, stirring it all the time. Put it into a very clean saucepan; boil the gruel for 10 minutes, keeping it well stirred; sweeten to taste, and serve. It may be flavoured with a small piece of lemon-peel, by boiling it in the gruel, or a little grated nutmeg may be put in; but in these matters the taste of the patient should be consulted. Pour the gruel in a tumbler and serve. When wine is allowed to the invalid, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry or port make this preparation very nice. In cases of colds, the same quantity of spirits is sometimes added instead of wine.
_Time_.–10 minutes.
_Sufficient_ to make a pint of gruel.
INVALID’S JELLY.
1869. INGREDIENTS.–12 shanks of mutton, 3 quarts of water, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades of mace, 1 onion, 1 lb. of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted brown.
_Mode_.–Soak the shanks in plenty of water for some hours, and scrub them well; put them, with the beef and other ingredients, into a saucepan with the water, and let them simmer very gently for 5 hours. Strain the broth, and, when cold, take off all the fat. It may be eaten either warmed up or cold as a jelly.
_Time_.–5 hours. _Average cost_, 1s.
_Sufficient_ to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of jelly.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
LEMONADE FOR INVALIDS.
1870. INGREDIENTS.–1/2 lemon, lump sugar to taste, 1 pint of boiling water.
_Mode_.–Pare off the rind of the lemon thinly; cut the lemon into 2 or 3 thick slices, and remove as much as possible of the white outside pith, and all the pips. Put the slices of lemon, the peel, and lump sugar into a jug; pour over the boiling water; cover it closely, and in 2 hours it will be fit to drink. It should either be strained or poured off from the sediment.
_Time_.–2 hours. _Average cost_, 2d.
_Sufficient_ to make 1 pint of lemonade. _Seasonable_ at any time.
NOURISHING LEMONADE.
1871. INGREDIENTS.–1-1/2 pint of boiling water, the juice of 4 lemons, the rinds of 2, 1/2 pint of sherry, 4 eggs, 6 oz. of loaf sugar.
_Mode_.–Pare off the lemon-rind thinly, put it into a jug with the sugar, and pour over the boiling water. Let it cool, then strain it; add the wine, lemon-juice, and eggs, previously well beaten, and also strained, and the beverage will be ready for use. If thought desirable, the quantity of sherry and water could be lessened, and milk substituted for them. To obtain the flavour of the lemon-rind properly, a few lumps of the sugar should be rubbed over it, until some of the yellow is absorbed.
_Time_.–Altogether 1 hour to make it. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d.
_Sufficient_ to make 2-1/2 pints of lemonade. _Seasonable_ at any time.
TO MAKE MUTTON BROTH.
1872. INGREDIENTS.–1 lb. of the scrag end of the neck of mutton, 1 onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, 4 turnip, 1/2 pints of water, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.–Put the mutton into a stewpan; pour over the water cold and add the other ingredients. When it boils, skim it very carefully, cover the pan closely, and let it simmer very gently for an hour; strain it, let it cool, take off all the fat from the surface, and warm up as much as may be required, adding, if the patient be allowed to take it, a teaspoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded. Pearl barley or rice are very nice additions to mutton broth, and should be boiled as long as the other ingredients. When either of these is added, the broth must not be strained, but merely thoroughly skimmed. Plain mutton broth without seasoning is made by merely boiling the mutton, water, and salt together, straining it, letting the broth cool, skimming all the fat off, and warming up as much as is required. This preparation would be very tasteless and insipid, but likely to agree with very delicate stomachs, whereas the least addition of other ingredients would have the contrary effect.
_Time_.–1 hour. _Average cost_, _7d._
_Sufficient_ to make from 1-1/2 to 2 pints of broth.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.–Veal broth may be made in the same manner; the knuckle of a leg or shoulder is the part usually used for this purpose. It is very good with the addition of the inferior joints of a fowl, or a few shank-bones.
MUTTON BROTH, QUICKLY MADE.
1873. INGREDIENTS.–1 or 2 chops from a neck of mutton, 1 pint of water, a small bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 of an onion, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.–Cut the meat into small pieces, put it into a saucepan with the bones, but no skin or fat; add the other ingredients; cover the saucepan, and bring the water quickly to boil. Take the lid off, and continue the rapid boiling for 20 minutes, skimming it well during the process; strain the broth into a basin; if there should be any fat left on the surface, remove it by laying a piece of thin paper on the top: the greasy particles will adhere to the paper, and so free the preparation from them. To an invalid nothing is more disagreeable than broth served with a quantity of fat floating on the top; to avoid this, it is always better to allow it to get thoroughly cool, the fat can then be so easily removed.
_Time_.–20 minutes after the water boils. _Average cost_, 5d.
_Sufficient_ to make 1/2 pint of broth. _Seasonable_ at any time.
STEWED RABBITS IN MILK.
1874. INGREDIENTS.–2 very young rabbits, not nearly half grown; 1-1/2 pint of milk, 1 blade of mace, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, a little salt and cayenne.
_Mode_.–Mix the flour very smoothly with 4 tablespoonfuls of the milk, and when this is well mixed, add the remainder. Cut up the rabbits into joints, put them into a stewpan, with the milk and other ingredients, and simmer them _very gently_ until quite tender. Stir the contents from time to time, to keep the milk smooth and prevent it from burning. 1/2 hour will be sufficient for the cooking of this dish.
_Time_.–1/2 hour. _Average cost_, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 meals. _Seasonable_ from September to February.
RICE-MILK.
1875. INGREDIENTS.–3 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 quart of milk, sugar to taste; when liked, a little grated nutmeg.
_Mode_.–Well wash the rice, put it into a saucepan with the milk, and simmer gently until the rice is tender, stirring it from time to time to prevent the milk from burning; sweeten it, add a little grated nutmeg, and serve. This dish is also very suitable and wholesome for children; it may be flavoured with a little lemon-peel, and a little finely-minced suet may be boiled with it, which renders it more strengthening and more wholesome. Tapioca, semolina, vermicelli, and macaroni, may all be dressed in the same manner.
_Time_.–From 3/4 to 1 hour. _Seasonable_ at any time.
TO MAKE TOAST-AND-WATER.
1876. INGREDIENTS.–A slice of bread, 1 quart of boiling water.
_Mode_.–Cut a slice from a stale loaf (a piece of hard crust is better than anything else for the purpose), toast it of a nice brown on every side, but _do not allow it to burn or blacken_. Put it into a jug, pour the boiling water over it, cover it closely, and let it remain until cold. When strained, it will be ready for use. Toast-and-water should always be made a short time before it is required, to enable it to get cold: if drunk in a tepid or lukewarm state, it is an exceedingly disagreeable beverage. If, as is sometimes the case, this drink is wanted in a hurry, put the toasted bread into a jug, and only just cover it with the boiling water; when this is cool, cold water may be added in the proportion required,–the toast-and-water strained; it will then be ready for use, and is more expeditiously prepared than by the above method.
TOAST SANDWICHES.
1877. INGREDIENTS.–Thin cold toast, thin slices of bread-and-butter, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.–Place a very thin piece of cold toast between 2 slices of thin bread-and-butter in the form of a sandwich, adding a seasoning of pepper and salt. This sandwich may be varied by adding a little pulled meat, or very fine slices of cold meat, to the toast, and in any of these forms will be found very tempting to the appetite of an invalid.
1878. Besides the recipes contained in this chapter, there are, in the previous chapters on cookery, many others suitable for invalids, which it would be useless to repeat here. Recipes for fish simply dressed, light soups, plain roast meat, well-dressed vegetables, poultry, simple puddings, jelly, stewed fruits, &c. &c., all of which dishes may be partaken of by invalids and convalescents, will be found in preceding chapters.
DINNERS AND DINING.
CHAPTER XL.
1879. Man, it has been said, is a dining animal. Creatures of the inferior races eat and drink; man only dines. It has also been said that he is a cooking animal; but some races eat food without cooking it. A Croat captain said to M. Brillat Savarin, “When, in campaign, we feel hungry, we knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder it with salt, put it under the saddle, gallop over it for half a mile, and then eat it.” Huntsmen in Dauphiny, when out shooting, have been known to kill a bird, pluck it, salt and pepper it, and cook it by carrying it some time in their caps. It is equally true that some races of men do not dine any more than the tiger or the vulture. It is not a _dinner_ at which sits the aboriginal Australian, who gnaws his bone half bare and then flings it behind to his squaw. And the native of Terra-del-Fuego does not dine when he gets his morsel of red clay. Dining is the privilege of civilization. The rank which a people occupy in the grand scale may be measured by their way of taking their meals, as well as by their way of treating their women. The nation which knows how to dine has learnt the leading lesson of progress. It implies both the will and the skill to reduce to order, and surround with idealisms and graces, the more material conditions of human existence; and wherever that will and that skill exist, life cannot be wholly ignoble.
1880. Dinner, being the grand solid meal of the day, is a matter of considerable importance; and a well-served table is a striking index of human, ingenuity and resource. “Their table,” says Lord Byron, in describing a dinner-party given by Lord and Lady Amundevillo at Norman Abbey,–
“Their table was a board to tempt even ghosts To pass the Styx for more substantial feasts. I will not dwell upon ragouts or roasts, Albeit all human history attests
That happiness for man–the hungry sinner!– Since Eve ate apples, much depends on dinner.”
And then he goes on to observe upon the curious complexity of the results produced by human cleverness and application catering for the modifications which occur in civilized life, one of the simplest of the primal instincts:–
“The mind is lost in mighty contemplation Of intellect expended on two courses;
And indigestion’s grand multiplication Requires arithmetic beyond my forces.
Who would suppose, from Adam’s simple ration, That cookery could have call’d forth such resources, As form a science and a nomenclature
From out the commonest demands of nature?”
And we may well say, Who, indeed, would suppose it? The gulf between the Croat, with a steak under his saddle, and Alexis Soyer getting up a great dinner at the Reform-Club, or even Thackeray’s Mrs. Raymond Gray giving “a little dinner” to Mr. Snob (with one of those famous “roly-poly puddings” of hers),–what a gulf it is!
1881. That Adam’s “ration,” however, was “simple,” is a matter on which we have contrary judgments given by the poets. When Raphael paid that memorable visit to Paradise,–which we are expressly told by Milton he did exactly at dinner-time,–Eve seems to have prepared “a little dinner” not wholly destitute of complexity, and to have added ice-creams and perfumes. Nothing can be clearer than the testimony of the poet on these points:–
“And Eve within, due at her home prepared For dinner savoury fruits, of taste to please True appetite, and not disrelish thirst Of nectarous draughts between….
…. With dispatchful looks in haste She turns, on hospitable thoughts intent, What choice to choose for delicacy best, What order so contrived as not to mix
Tastes not well join’d, inelegant, but bring Taste after taste, upheld with kindliest change– * * * * *
“She _tempers dulcet creams_….
…. _then strews the ground
With rose and odours._”
It may be observed, in passing, that the poets, though they have more to say about wine than solid food, because the former more directly stimulates the intellect and the feelings, do not flinch from the subject of eating and drinking. There is infinite zest in the above passage from Milton, and even more in the famous description of a dainty supper, given by Keats in his “Eve of Saint Agnes.” Could Queen Mab herself desire to sit down to anything nicer, both as to its appointments and serving, and as to its quality, than the collation served by Porphyro in the lady’s bedroom while she slept?–
“There by the bedside, where the faded moon Made a dim silver twilight, soft he set A table, and, half-anguish’d, threw thereor A cloth of woven crimson, gold, and jet. * * * * *
“While he, from forth the closet, brought a heap Of candied apple, quince, and plum, and gourd; With jellies smoother than the creamy curd, And lucent syrups tinct with cinnamon;
Manna and dates, in argosy transferr’d From Fez; and spiced dainties, every one, From silken Samarcand to cedar’d Lebanon.”
But Tennyson has ventured beyond dates, and quinces, and syrups, which may be thought easy to be brought in by a poet. In his idyl of “Audley Court” he gives a most appetizing description of a pasty at a pic-nic:–
“There, on a slope of orchard, Francis laid A damask napkin wrought with horse and hound; Brought out a dusky loaf that smelt of home, And, half cut down, a pasty costly made, Where quail and pigeon, lark and leveret, lay Like fossils of the rock, with golden yolks Imbedded and injellied.”
We gladly quote passages like these, to show how eating and drinking may be surrounded with poetical associations, and how man, using his privilege to turn any and every repast into a “feast of reason,” with a warm and plentiful “flow of soul,” may really count it as not the least of his legitimate prides, that he is “a dining animal.”
1882. It has been said, indeed, that great men, in general, are great diners. This, however, can scarcely be true of any great men but men of action; and, in that case, it would simply imply that persons of vigorous constitution, who work hard, eat heartily; for, of course, a life of action _requires_ a vigorous constitution, even though there may be much illness, as in such cases as William III. and our brave General Napier. Of men of thought, it can scarcely be true that they eat so much, in a general way, though even they eat more than they are apt to suppose they do; for, as Mr. Lewes observes, “nerve-tissue is very expensive.” Leaving great men of all kinds, however, to get their own dinners, let us, who are not great, look after ours. Dine we must, and we may as well dine elegantly as well as wholesomely.
1883. There are plenty of elegant dinners in modern days, and they were not wanting in ancient times. It is well known that the dinner-party, or symposium, was a not unimportant, and not unpoetical, feature in the life of the sociable, talkative, tasteful Greek. Douglas Jerrold said that such is the British humour for dining and giving of dinners, that if London were to be destroyed by an earthquake, the Londoners would meet at a public dinner to consider the subject. The Greeks, too, were great diners: their social and religious polity gave them many chances of being merry and making others merry on good eating and drinking. Any public or even domestic sacrifice to one of the gods, was sure to be followed by a dinner-party, the remains of the slaughtered “offering” being served up on the occasion as a pious _piece de resistance;_ and as the different gods, goddesses, and demigods, worshipped by the community in general, or by individuals, were very numerous indeed, and some very religious people never let a day pass without offering up something or other, the dinner-parties were countless. A birthday, too, was an excuse for a dinner; a birthday, that is, of any person long dead and buried, as well as of a living person, being a member of the family, or otherwise esteemed. Dinners were, of course, eaten on all occasions of public rejoicing. Then, among the young people, subscription dinners, very much after the manner of modern times, were always being got up; only that they would be eaten not at an hotel, but probably at the house of one of the _heterae_. A Greek dinner-party was a handsome, well-regulated affair. The guests came in elegantly dressed and crowned with flowers. A slave, approaching each person as he entered, took off his sandals and washed his feet. During the repast, the guests reclined on couches with pillows, among and along which were set small tables. After the solid meal came the “symposium” proper, a scene of music, merriment, and dancing, the two latter being supplied chiefly by young girls. There was a chairman, or symposiarch, appointed by the company to regulate the drinking; and it was his duty to mix the wine in the “mighty bowl.” From this bowl the attendants ladled the liquor into goblets, and, with the goblets, went round and round the tables, filling the cups of the guests.
1884. The elegance with which a dinner is served is a matter which depends, of course, partly upon the means, but still more upon the taste of the master and mistress of the house. It may be observed, in general, that there should always be flowers on the table, and as they form no item of expense, there is no reason why they should not be employed every day.
1885. The variety in the dishes which furnish forth a modern dinner-table, does not necessarily imply anything unwholesome, or anything capricious. Food that is not well relished cannot be well digested; and the appetite of the over-worked man of business, or statesman, or of any dweller in towns, whose occupations are exciting and exhausting, is jaded, and requires stimulation. Men and women who are in rude health, and who have plenty of air and exercise, eat the simplest food with relish, and consequently digest it well; but those conditions are out of the reach of many men. They must suit their mode of dining to their mode of living, if they cannot choose the latter. It is in serving up food that is at once appetizing and wholesome that the skill of the modern housewife is severely tasked; and she has scarcely a more important duty to fulfil. It is, in fact, her particular vocation, in virtue of which she may be said to hold the health of the family, and of the friends of the family, in her hands from day to day. It has been said that “the destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they are fed;” and a great gastronomist exclaims, “Tell me what kind of food you eat, and I will tell you what kind of man you are.” The same writer has some sentences of the same kind, which are rather hyperbolical, but worth quoting:–“The pleasures of the table belong to all ages, to all conditions, to all countries, and to all eras; they mingle with all other pleasures, and remain, at last, to console us for their departure. The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness upon humanity than the discovery of a new star.”
1886. The gastronomist from whom we have already quoted, has some aphorisms and short directions in relation to dinner-parties, which are well deserving of notice:–“Let the number of your guests never exceed twelve, so that the conversation may be general. [Footnote: We have seen this varied by saying that the number should never exceed that of the Muses or fall below that of the Graces.] Let the temperature of the dining-room be about 68 deg.. Let the dishes be few in number in the first course, but proportionally good. The order of food is from the most substantial to the lightest. The order of drinking wine is from the mildest to the most foamy and most perfumed. To invite a person to your house is to take charge of his happiness so long as he is beneath your roof. The mistress of the house should always be certain that the coffee be excellent; whilst the master should be answerable for the quality of his wines and liqueurs.”
BILLS OF FARE.
JANUARY.
1887.–DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
_First Course._
Mock Turtle Soup,
removed by
Cod’s Head and Shoulders.
Stewed Eels. Vase of Red Mullet. Flowers.
Clear Oxtail Soup,
removed by
Fried Filleted Soles.
_Entrees._
Riz de Veau aux
Tomates.
Ragout of Vase of Cotelettes de Pore Lobster. Flowers. a la Roberts.
Poulet a la Marengo.
_Second Course._
Roast Turkey.
Pigeon Pie.
Boiled Turkey and Vase of Boiled Ham. Celery Sauce. Flowers.
Tongue, garnished.
Saddle of Mutton.
_Third Course._
Charlotte Pheasants, Apricot Jam a la Parisienne. removed by Tartlets. Plum-pudding.
Jelly.
Cream. Vase of Cream.
Flowers.
Jelly.
Snipes,
removed by
Pommes a la Conde.
We have given above the plan of placing the various dishes of the 1st Course, Entrees, 2nd Course, and 3rd Course. Following this will be found bills of fare for smaller parties; and it will be readily seen, by studying the above arrangement of dishes, how to place a less number for the more limited company. Several _menus_ for dinners _a la Russe,_ are also included in the present chapter.
1888.–DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (January).
FIRST COURSE.
Carrot Soup a la Crecy.
Oxtail Soup.
Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Fried Smelts, with Dutch Sauce.
ENTREES.
Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise Sauce. Sweetbreads.
Oyster Patties.
Fillets of Rabbits.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey.
Stewed Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere. Boiled Ham, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Hare.
Teal.
Eggs a la Neige.
Vol-au-Vent of Preserved Fruit.
1 Jelly. 1 Cream.
Potatoes a la Maitre d’Hotel.
Grilled Mushrooms.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1889.–DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (January).
FIRST COURSE.
Soup a la Reine.
Whitings au Gratin.
Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
ENTREES.
Tendrons de Veau.
Curried Fowl and Boiled Rice.
SECOND COURSE.
Turkey, stuffed with Chestnuts, and Chestnut Sauce. Boiled Leg of Mutton, English Fashion,
with Capers Sauce and Mashed Turnips.
THIRD COURSE.
Woodcocks or Partridges.
Widgeon.
Charlotte a la Vanille.
Cabinet Pudding.
Orange Jelly.
Blancmange.
Artichoke Bottoms.
Macaroni, with Parmesan Cheese.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1890.–DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (January).
FIRST COURSE.
Mulligatawny Soup.
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Fried Whitings.
ENTREES.
Fricasseed Chicken.
Pork Cutlets, with Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Pheasants.
Meringues a la Creme.
Compote of Apples.
Orange Jelly.
Cheesecakes.
Souffle of Rice.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1891.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).–I.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Soles a la Normandie.
ENTREES.
Sweetbreads, with Sauce Piquante.
Mutton Cutlets, with Mashed Potatoes.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Venison.
Boiled Fowls and Bacon, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Plum-pudding.
Custards in Glasses.
Apple Tart.
Fondue a la Brillat Savarin.
DESSERT.
1892.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).–II.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Fried Slices of Codfish and Anchovy Sauce. John Dory.
ENTREES.
Stewed Rump-steak a la Jardiniere Rissoles. Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Leg of Mutton.
Curried Rabbit and Boiled Rice.
THIRD COURSE.
Partridges.
Apple Fritters.
Tartlets of Greengage Jam.
Orange Jelly.
Plum-pudding.
DESSERT.
1893.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).–III.
FIRST COURSE.
Pea-soup.
Baked Haddock.
Soles a la Creme.
ENTREES.
Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
Fricasseed Rabbit.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Pork and Apple Sauce.
Breast of Veal, Rolled and Stuffed. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Jugged Hare.
Whipped Cream, Blancmange.
Mince Pies.
Cabinet Pudding.
1894.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).–IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Palestine Soup.
Fried Smelts.
Stewed Eels.
ENTREES.
Ragout of Lobster.
Broiled Mushrooms.
Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.
SECOND COURSE.
Sirloin of Beef.
Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce.
Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Charlotte aux Pommes.
Cheesecakes.
Transparent Jelly, inlaid with Brandy Cherries. Blancmange.
Nesselrode Pudding.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JANUARY.
1895. _Sunday._–1, Boiled turbot and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast leg or griskin of pork, apple sauce, brocoli, potatoes. 3. Cabinet pudding, and damson tart made with preserved damsons.
1896. _Monday._–1. The remains of turbot warmed in oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam tart, which should have been made with the pieces of paste left from the damson tart; baked arrowroot pudding.
1897. _Tuesday._–1. Boiled neck of mutton, carrots, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, and caper sauce: the broth should be served first, and a little rice or pearl barley should be boiled with it along with the meat. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
1898. _Wednesday._–1. Roast rolled ribs of beef, greens, potatoes, and horseradish sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, cheesecakes.
1899. _Thursday._–1. Vegetable soup (the bones from the ribs of beef should be boiled down with this soup), cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Pheasants, gravy, bread sauce. 3. Macaroni.
1900. _Friday._–1. Fried whitings or soles. 2. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, minced beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings.
1901. _Saturday._–1. Rump-steak pudding or pie, greens, and potatoes. 2. Baked custard pudding and stewed apples.
* * * * *
1902. _Sunday._–1. Codfish and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Joint of roast mutton, either leg, haunch, or saddle; brocoli and potatoes, red-currant jelly. 3. Apple tart and custards, cheese.
1903. _Monday._–1. The remains of codfish picked from the bone, and warmed through in the oyster sauce; if there is no sauce left, order a few oysters and make a little fresh; and do not let the fish boil, or it will be watery. 2. Curried rabbit, with boiled rice served separately, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with wine sauce.
1904. _Tuesday._–1. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon garnished with Brussels sprouts, minced or hashed mutton. 2. Baroness pudding.
1905. _Wednesday._–1. The remains of the fowls cut up into joints and fricasseed; joint of roast pork and apple sauce, and, if liked, sage-and-onion, served on a dish by itself; turnips and potatoes. 2. Lemon pudding, either baked or boiled.
1906. _Thursday._–1. Cold pork and jugged hare, red-currant jelly, mashed potatoes. 2. Apple pudding.
1907. _Friday._–1. Boiled beef, either the aitchbone or the silver side of the round; carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes: if there is a marrowbone, serve the marrow on toast at the same time. 2. Rice snowballs.
1908. _Saturday._–1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which beef was boiled; cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked batter fruit pudding.
FEBRUARY.
1909.–DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
_First Course._
Hare Soup,
removed by
Turbot and Oyster Sauce.
Fried Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings. Flowers.
Oyster Soup,
removed by
Crimped Cod a la Maitre
d’Hotel.
_Entrees._
Lark Pudding.
Lobster Patties. Vase of Filets de Perdrix. Flowers.
Fricasseed Chicken.
_Second Course._
Braised Capon.
Boiled Ham, garnished.
Roast Fowls, garnished Vase of Boiled Fowls and with Water-cresses. Flowers. White Sauce.
Pate Chaud.
Haunch of Mutton.
_Third Course_
Ducklings,
removed by
Ice Pudding.
Meringues. Coffee Cream. Cheesecakes.
Orange Jelly. Vase of Clear Jelly. Flowers.
Victoria Blancmange. Gateau de Sandwiches. Pommes.
Partridges,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1910.–DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (February).
FIRST COURSE.
Soup a la Reine.
Clear Gravy Soup.
Brill and Lobster Sauce.
Fried Smelts.
ENTREES.
Lobster Rissoles.
Beef Palates.
Pork Cutlets a la Soubise.
Grilled Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE.
Braised Turkey.
Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli. Vegetables and Salads.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Plovers.
Orange Jelly.
Clear Jelly.
Charlotte Russe.
Nesselrode Pudding.
Gateau de Riz.
Sea-kale.
Maids of Honour.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1911.–DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (February).
FIRST COURSE.
Palestine Soup.
John Dory, with Dutch Sauce.
Red Mullet, with Sauce Genoise.
ENTREES.
Sweetbread Cutlets, with Poivrade Sauce. Fowl au Bechamel.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Guinea-Fowls. Ducklings.
Pain de Rhubarb.
Orange Jelly.
Strawberry Cream.
Cheesecakes.
Almond Pudding.
Fig Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1912.–DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (February).
FIRST COURSE.
Mock Turtle Soup.
Fillets of Turbot a la Creme.
Fried Filleted Soles and Anchovy Sauce.
ENTREES.
Larded Fillets of Rabbits.
Tendrons de Veau with Puree of Tomatoes.
SECOND COURSE.
Stewed Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere. Roast Fowls.
Boiled Ham.
THIRD COURSE.
Roast Pigeons or Larks.
Rhubarb Tartlets.
Meringues.
Clear Jelly. Cream.
Ice Pudding.
Souffle.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1913.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February)–I.
FIRST COURSE.
Rice Soup.
Red Mullet, with Genoise Sauce.
Fried Smelts.
ENTREES.
Fowl Pudding.
Sweetbreads.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey and Sausages.
Boiled Leg of Pork.
Pease Pudding.
THIRD COURSE.
Lemon Jelly.
Charlotte a la Vanille.
Maids of Honour.
Plum-pudding, removed by Ice Pudding.
DESSERT.
1914.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).–II.
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES.
Fricasseed Rabbit.
Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Round of Beef and Marrow-bones. Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses and rolled Bacon. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Marrow Pudding.
Cheesecakes.
Tartlets of Greengage Jam.
Lemon Cream.
Rhubarb Tart.
DESSERT.
1915.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).–III.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Fried Whitings. Stewed Eels.
ENTREES.
Poulet a la Marengo.
Breast of Veal stuffed and rolled.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Leg of Pork and Apple Sauce. Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Lobster Salad.
Charlotte aux Pommes.
Pain de Rhubarb.
Vanilla Cream.
Orange Jelly.
DESSERT.
1916.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).–IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Ox-tail Soup.
Cod a la Creme.
Fried Soles.
ENTREES.
Lark Pudding.
Fowl Scollops.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Leg of Mutton.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
Pigeon Pie.
Small Ham, boiled and garnished.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Game, when liked.
Tartlets of Raspberry Jam.
Vol-au-Vent of Rhubarb.
Swiss Cream. Cabinet Pudding.
Brocoli and Sea-kale.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR FEBRUARY.
1917. _Sunday_.–1. Ox-tail soup. 2 Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, apple tart. Cheese.
1918. _Monday_.–1. Fried soles, plain melted butter, and potatoes. 2. Cold roast beef, mashed potatoes. 3. The remains of plum-pudding cut in slices, warmed, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over it. Cheese.
1919. _Tuesday_.–1. The remains of ox-tail soup from Sunday. 2. Pork cutlets with tomato sauce; hashed beef. 3. Boiled jam pudding. Cheese.
1920. _Wednesday_.–1. Boiled haddock and plain melted butter. 2. Rump-steak pudding, potatoes, greens. 3. Arrowroot, blancmange, garnished with jam.
1921. _Thursday_.–1. Boiled leg of pork, greens, potatoes, pease pudding. 2. Apple fritters, sweet macaroni.
1922. _Friday_.–1. Pea-soup made with liquor that the pork was boiled in. 2. Cold pork, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked rice pudding.
1923. _Saturday_.–1. Broiled herrings and mustard sauce. 2. Haricot mutton. 3. Macaroni, either served as a sweet pudding or with cheese.
* * * * *
1924. _Sunday_.–1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton and caper sauce, mashed turnips, roast fowls, and bacon. 3. Damson tart made with bottled fruit, ratafia pudding.
1925. _Monday_.–1. The remainder of fowl curried and served with rice; rump-steaks and oyster sauce, cold mutton. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
1926. _Tuesday_.–1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was boiled in on Sunday. 2. Roast sirloin of beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Cheese.
1927. _Wednesday_.–1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and mashed potatoes: if there is any cold boiled mutton left, cut it into neat slices and warm it in a little caper sauce. 3. Apple tart.
1928. _Thursday_.–1. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, stewed beef and vegetables, made with the remains of cold beef and bones. 2. Macaroni.
1929. _Friday_.–1. Roast leg of pork, sage and onions and apple sauce; greens and potatoes. 2. Spinach and poached eggs instead of pudding. Cheese and water-cresses.
1930. _Saturday_.–1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, cold pork and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked rice pudding.
MARCH.
1931.–DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
_First Course._
Turtle or Mock Turtle Soup, removed by
Salmon and dressed
Cucumber.
Red Mullet. Vase of Filets of Whitings. Flowers.
Spring Soup,
removed by
Boiled Turbot and Lobster
Sauce.
_Entrees_
Fricasseed Chicken.
Vol-au-Vent. Vase of Compote of Pigeons. Flowers.
Larded Sweetbreads.
_Second Course._
Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Braised Capon.
Boiled Tongue, Vase of Ham. garnished. Flowers.
Roast Fowls.
Rump of Beef a la
Jardiniere.
_Third Course._
Guinea-Fowls, larded,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Apricot Wine Jelly. Rhubarb Tartlets. Tart.
Custards. Vase of Jelly in Flowers. glasses.
Italian Cream.
Damson Tart. Ducklings, Cheesecakes. removed by
Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1932.–DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (March).
FIRST COURSE.
White Soup.
Clear Gravy Soup.
Boiled Salmon, Shrimp Sauce, and dressed Cucumber. Baked Mullets in paper cases.
ENTREES.
Filet de Boeuf and Spanish Sauce.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Rissoles.
Chicken Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal and Bechamel Sauce. Boiled Leg of Lamb.
Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses. Boiled Ham, garnished with Carrots and mashed Turnips. Vegetables–Sea-kale, Spinach, or Brocoli.
THIRD COURSE.
Two Ducklings.
Guinea-Fowl, larded.
Orange Jelly.
Charlotte Russe.
Coffee Cream.
Ice Pudding.
Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese.
Spinach, garnished with Croutons.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1933.–DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (March).
FIRST COURSE.
Macaroni Soup.
Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Salmon Cutlets.
ENTREES.
Compote of Pigeons.
Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb.
Boiled Half Calf’s Head, Tongue, and Brains. Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with spoonfuls of Spinach. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Plum-pudding.
Ginger Cream.
Trifle.
Rhubarb Tart.
Cheesecakes.
Fondues, in cases.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1934.–DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (March).
FIRST COURSE.
Calf’s-Head Soup.
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Broiled Mackerel a la Maitre d’Hotel.
ENTREES.
Lobster Cutlets.
Calf’s Liver and Bacon, aux fines herbes.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Two Boiled Fowls a la Bechamel.
Boiled Knuckle of Ham.
Vegetables–Spinach or Brocoli.
THIRD COURSE.
Wild Ducks.
Apple Custards.
Blancmange.
Lemon Jelly.
Jam Sandwiches.
Ice Pudding.
Potatoes a la Maitre d’Hotel.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1935.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).–I.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Soles a la Creme.
ENTREES.
Veal Cutlets.
Small Vols-au-Vent.
SECOND COURSE.
Small Saddle of Mutton.
Half Calf’s Head.
Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE.
Cabinet Pudding.
Orange Jelly.
Custards, in glasses.
Rhubarb Tart.
Lobster Salad.
DESSERT.
1936.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).–II.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Baked Mullets.
ENTREES.
Chicken Cutlets.
Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Lamb and Mint Sauce.
Boiled Leg of Pork.
Pease Pudding.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Swiss Cream.
Lemon Jelly.
Cheesecakes.
Rhubarb Tart.
Macaroni.
Dessert.
1937.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).–III.
FIRST COURSE.
Oyster Soup.
Boiled Salmon and dressed Cucumber.
ENTREES.
Rissoles. Fricasseed Chicken.
SECOND COURSE.
Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. Roast Fowls, garnished with
Water-cresses.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Charlotte aux Pommes.
Orange Jelly.
Lemon Cream.
Souffle of Arrowroot.
Sea-kale.
DESSERT.
1938.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).–IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Ox-tail Soup.
Boiled Mackerel.
ENTREES.
Stewed Mutton Kidneys.
Minced Veal and Oysters.
SECOND COURSE.
Stewed Shoulder of Veal.
Roast Ribs of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Tartlets of Strawberry Jam.
Cheesecakes.
Gateau de Riz.
Carrot Pudding.
Sea-kale.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MARCH.
1939. _Sunday_.–1. Boiled 1/2 calf’s head, pickled pork, the tongue on a small dish with the brains round it; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 2. Plum tart made with bottled fruit, baked custard pudding, Baroness pudding.
1940. _Monday_.–1. Roast shoulder of mutton and onion sauce, brocoli, baked potatoes. 2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed, and served with sugar sprinkled over. Cheesecakes.
1941. _Tuesday_.–1. Mock turtle soup, made with liquor that calf’s head was boiled in, and the pieces of head. 2. Hashed mutton, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Boiled plum-pudding.
1942. _Wednesday_.–1. Fried whitings, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Boiled beef, suet dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow-bones. 3. Arrowroot blancmange, and stewed rhubarb.
1943. _Thursday_.–1. Pea-soup made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Stewed rump-steak, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Rolled jam pudding.
1944. _Friday_.–1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. Rice pudding.
1945. _Saturday_.–1.–Rump-steak pie, haricot mutton made with remains of cold loin. 2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding.
* * * * *
1946. _Sunday_.–1. Roast fillet of veal, boiled ham, spinach and potatoes. 2. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses, bread-and-butter pudding.
1947. _Monday_.–1. Baked soles, potatoes. 2. Minced veal and rump-steak pie. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with the remains of custards poured round them; marmalade tartlets.
1948. _Tuesday_.–1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, veal rissoles made with remains of fillet of veal. 3. Cheese.
1949. _Wednesday_.–1. Stewed mullets. 2. Roast fowls, bacon, gravy, and bread sauce, mutton pudding, made with a few slices of the cold meat and the addition of two kidneys. 3. Baked lemon pudding.
1950. _Thursday_.–1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was boiled in, and mixed with the remains of gravy soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, brocoli and potatoes. 3. Apple pudding or macaroni.
1951. _Friday_.–1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with bottled fruit.
1952. _Saturday_.–1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, broiled beef-bones, greens and potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with pieces of paste from plum tart, baked custard pudding.
APRIL.
1953.–DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
_First Course._
Spring Soup,
removed by
Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Fillet of Mackerel. Vase of Fried Smelts. Flowers.
Soles a la Creme.
_Entrees._
Lamb Cutlets and Asparagus Peas.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Oyster Patties. Flowers.
Grenadines de Veau.
_Second Course._
Roast Ribs of Lamb.
Larded Capon.
Stewed Beef A la Vase of Boiled Ham. Jardiniere. Flowers.
Spring Chickens.
Braised Turkey.
_Third Course._
Ducklings,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.
Clear Jelly. Charlotte a la Parisienne. Orange Jelly.
Raspberry Jam Turtles. Vase of Cheese-Cakes. Victoria Sandwiches. Flowers. Rhubarb Tart.
Raspberry Cream.
Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1954.–DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (April).
FIRST COURSE.
Soup a la Reine.
Julienne Soup.
Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Slices of Salmon a la Genevese.
ENTREES.
Croquettes of Leveret.
Fricandeau de Veau.
Vol-au-Vent.
Stewed Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE.
Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Saddle of Mutton.
Boiled Chickens and Asparagus Peas. Boiled Tongue garnished with Tufts of Brocoli. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings. Larded Guinea-Fowls.
Charlotte a la Parisienne.
Orange Jelly.
Meringues.
Ratafia Ice Pudding.
Lobster Salad.
Sea-kale.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1955.–DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (April).
FIRST COURSE
Gravy Soup.
Salmon and Dressed Cucumber.
Shrimp Sauce.
Fillets of Whitings.
ENTREES.
Lobster Cutlets.
Chicken Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal.
Boiled Leg of Lamb.
Ham, garnished with Brocoli.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Compote of Rhubarb.
Custards.
Vanilla Cream.
Orange Jelly.
Cabinet Pudding.
Ice Pudding.
DESSERT.
1956.–DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (April).
FIRST COURSE.
Spring Soup.
Slices of Salmon and Caper Sauce.
Fried Filleted Soles.
ENTREES.
Chicken Vol-au-Vent.
Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Loin of Veal.
Boiled Fowls a la Bechamel.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Guinea-Fowl.
Sea-kale.
Artichoke Bottoms.
Cabinet Pudding.
Blancmange.
Apricot Tartlets.
Rice Fritters.
Macaroni and Parmesan Cheese.
DESSERT.
1957.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).
FIRST COURSE.
Tapioca Soup.
Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES.
Sweetbreads.
Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE.
Haunch of Mutton.
Boiled Capon and White Sauce.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Souffle of Rice.
Lemon Cream.
Charlotte & la Parisienne.
Rhubarb Tart.
DESSERT.
1958.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).–II.
FIRST COURSE.
Julienne Soup.
Fried Whitings.
Red Mullet.
ENTREES.
Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
Rissoles.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Ribs of Beef.
Neck of Veal a la Bechamel.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Ducklings.
Lemon Pudding.
Rhubarb Tart.
Custards.
Cheesecakes.
DESSERT.
1959.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).–III.
FIRST COURSE.
Vermicelli Soup.
Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
ENTREES.
Fricandeau of Veal.
Lobster Cutlets.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Boiled Chickens.
Tongue.
Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Goslings.
Sea-kale.
Plum-pudding.
Whipped Cream.
Compote of Rhubarb.
Cheesecakes.
DESSERT.
1960.–DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).–IV.
FIRST COURSE.
Ox-tail Soup.
Crimped Salmon.
ENTREES.
Croquettes of Chicken.
Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce.
SECOND COURSE.
Roast Fillet of Veal.
Boiled Bacon-cheek garnished with Sprouts. Boiled Capon. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE.
Sea-kale. Lobster Salad.
Cabinet Pudding.
Ginger Cream.
Raspberry Jam Tartlets.
Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR APRIL.
1961. _Sunday._–1. Clear gravy soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, sea-kale, potatoes. 3. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses.
1962. _Monday._–1. Crimped skate and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked plum-pudding.
1963. _Tuesday._–1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, made from remains of cold mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked custard pudding.
1964. _Wednesday._–1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Boiled beef, carrots, suet dumplings. 3. Lemon pudding.
1965. _Thursday._–1. Pea-soup made with liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Macaroni.
1966. _Friday._–1. Bubble-and-squeak, made with remains of cold beef. Roast shoulder of veal stuffed, spinach, potatoes. 2. Boiled batter pudding and sweet sauce.
1967. _Saturday._–1. Stewed veal with vegetables, made from the remains of the shoulder. Broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. Yeast-dumplings.
* * * * *
1968. _Sunday._–1. Boiled salmon and dressed cucumber, anchovy sauce 2. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, spinach, potatoes, mint sauce. 2. Rhubarb tart, cheesecakes.
1969. _Monday._–1. Curried salmon, made with remains of salmon, dish of boiled rice. 2. Cold lamb, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, potatoes. 3. Spinach and poached eggs.
1970. _Tuesday._–1. Scotch mutton broth with pearl barley. 2. Boiled neck of mutton, caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. Baked rice-pudding.
1971. _Wednesday._–1. Boiled mackerel and melted butter or fennel sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, bacon, and greens. 3. Fig pudding.
1972. _Thursday._–1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, potatoes; veal rolls made from remains of cold veal. 3. Boiled rhubarb pudding.
1973. _Friday._–1. Irish stew or haricot, made from cold mutton, minced veal. 2. Half-pay pudding.
1974. _Saturday._–1. Rump-steak pie, broiled mutton-chops. 2. Baked arrowroot pudding.
MAY.
1975.–DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
_First Course._
Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Salmon and Lobster
Sauce.
Fried Filleted Vase of Fillets of Mackerel, Soles Flowers. a la Maitre d’Hotel.
Oxtail Soup,
removed by
Brill & Shrimp Sauce.
_Entrees._
Lamb Cutlets and
Cucumbers.
Lobster Pudding. Vase of Curried Fowl. Flowers.
Veal Ragout.
_Second Course._
Saddle of Lamb.
Raised Pie.
Roast Fowls. Vase of Boiled Capon Flowers. and White Sauce.
Braised Ham.
Roast Veal.
_Third Course._
Almond Goslings, Lobster Salad. Cheesecake removed by
College Puddings.
Noyeau Jelly.
Italian Vase of Charlotte a la Cream. Flowers. Parisienne.
Inlaid Jelly.
Plovers’ Ducklings,
Eggs. removed by Tartlets. Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.